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Discussion in 'Suits' started by Baron Kurtz, Nov 29, 2011.
Digby Morton 1953:
1942 Utility suit by Digby Morton:
how cool are these buttons ?
I thought this was about men's suits, if you start talking about ladies clothes of the period then you add in another layer of complexity to the cc41 think and clothes rationing as I say in a privious post ,
notice the date at the top of this page (1947)
Dior for one hid his stock of fabric during in the war years, could there have been others!
Ladies & Gentlemen: This CC41 thread is, I believe, generic for both genders - and what a showcase it's already becoming!!.
What a wonderful opportunity of a platform for mutual sharing; education & hopefully collation of this fascinating information, for other's to learn from.
i've read that anecdote in several different versions regarding ways to circumvent austerity restrictions. i can only assume that every man in the country was on to that little trick.
Right - here's a lovely herringbone (navy with read) overcoat for reference material.
Any one thought about looking here :-
The Burton Company archives are held at the West Yorkshire Archive Service in Leeds
An white silk (or more likely, rayon) scarf with a CC41 label (code L109):
New book coming soon. Looks interesting.
I was aware this was coming out as I know the publisher. I see there is a talk by the author on the 14th November. If anyone in London fancies heading down, I might be able to drive them down. Send me a PM if interested.
how cool are these buttons ?
Those are pretty awesome buttons!
I want those buttons!
A new book is being launched soon
Wot ho chums, this weeks Harry & Edna on the Wireless went to the book launch of 'CC41 Utility Clothing' and chatted to the author Mike Brown, you can hear the show online by clicking the link
Has anyone read the book yet?
Thought I would revive this thread having just acquired a dinner jacket with a CC41label. On a related topic can anyone tell me what was utility cloth?
Supposedly a lower grade of cloth, through content, weaving and finishing.
I have three CC41 shirts and collars which were issued to a family member on demobilisation in 1945. I wore them for several years as business wear, and they are still as good as new.
In the 1960s, as a penniless student, I dressed myself in a lot of Utility coats and suits, which in those days were readily available from secondhand clothes shops in the provinces.
In every case, the "low grade" Utility materials were streets ahead in quality and durability compared to anything but the very highest quality stuffs of today.
This is an exaggeration, to be honest.
Modern fabric of excellent quality can be found and it is much better than the equivalent-grade of the postwar era. Fabric is now softer and less stiff, which makes it more comfortable and less bulky. There are heavy weights available in fine finish so that one has the durability and crease resistance of heavy cloth without the discomfort of bulk and stiffness.
Fabric from CC41 suits was durable but not particularly luxurious by any means. Cloth with much better quality and almost same durability can be found today for very low prices.
The only thing that can not be denied is how awful is fabric in most RTW tailoring nowadays, Lightweight and paper-thin.
I agree. There are plenty of good suiting fabrics out there. I recently have gotten into the P&B Universal bunch from Harrison's - a 16 oz worsted with incredible drape potential. Good wool is out there. It's just pricey, and often not used for RTW production.
Yes, I second that. Good fabric is still produced in heavy weights but OTR industries push customers towards paper-thin "super" fabrics, so that nowadays the golden examples of luxurious suiting are the most fragile and feathery cloths. Think about the Zegna's madness of 15milmil, 14milmil, 13milmil fabrics: they are so expensive and yet so delicate you can't wear anything made with them but a few times per year. And stil Zegna makes a very good OTR cut.
Another factor that prevents OTR industry to use heavier fabric is the modern thing for "all-wheather" clothing - people nowadays seem very reluctant to perform what we usually call "wardrobe seasonal swap" and look for clothes that can be worn indifferently all year round.
It is a matter of fact that denser and heavier fabrics will feel uncomfortable during the heath, so it is just natural that lighter weights are favoured.
I think there is a certain amount of planned obsolescence involved too. The flimsier the "luxury" super wools are, the quicker your suit wears out, and the quicker you buy another one.