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Pandemic

One Too Many
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1,411
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In The Flat Field
Urgh, is anyone? ;)

I note in the first couple of @Monitor's photos Paul and Joe are both wearing not only engineer boots, but in the American style (under, not over, trews - which must therefore have been slightly looser at this point; back in my punk drainpipe days, I could only wear engineers up over my jeans, they were too tight for anything else!). As memory serves, the boys bought their first engineer boots when they first toured in the US. They were thereafter fashionable for a bit on the London punk scene, where they were known as 'Clash Boots' - I think Dan also mentioned this in another thread where they cropped up.

Chumba had their moments.

Fascinating about the Clash Boots. I had no idea engineers had a recent youth culture revival. My interest stemmed from old James Dean pics, though they are certainly in keeping with the vibe of the band. Very cool! By the time I discover the punk scene, the only acceptable footwear was tall DM boots and narrow jeans or maybe stapress drainpipes.

I wonder what brand of boots they had?

comment on boots UNDER trousers reminds me of the early goth scene. The London style at the time was all androgyny, super slim trousers or jeans, teased hair, Bowie-esque make-up and wrinkle picker boots. Meanwhile, up in Leeds, the Sisters of Mercy were deep into the Stooges and Motörhead, wearing lots of leather, sunglasses, sideburns and biker hair, big harness boots over jeans and beaten-up wide brim hats.
 
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Pandemic

One Too Many
Messages
1,411
Location
In The Flat Field
Badges and pins - now there is a look that hasn’t aged well.

C9C8B54A-BE10-4AEA-84E3-CF3641C499A3.jpeg
 
Messages
15,679
Urgh, is anyone? ;)

I note in the first couple of @Monitor's photos Paul and Joe are both wearing not only engineer boots, but in the American style (under, not over, trews - which must therefore have been slightly looser at this point; back in my punk drainpipe days, I could only wear engineers up over my jeans, they were too tight for anything else!). As memory serves, the boys bought their first engineer boots when they first toured in the US. They were thereafter fashionable for a bit on the London punk scene, where they were known as 'Clash Boots' - I think Dan also mentioned this in another thread where they cropped up.

@dannyk is a pro on the history of Clash, including the fashion part, yeah. That's a good bit of info, Edward. I haven't considered it until now but yeah, makes sense they'd wear skinny jeans back then with no way of Engineers ever fitting underneath. Worked with service boots but they fell outta favor with the Punk crowd at the time. Sid wore his Engineers' over jeans, right?
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,159
Unfortunately, no. I expect it sometime in November.
I reached out to them a couple weeks ago and got a generic we quoted 10-12 weeks production time. I think I ordered maybe 2 or 3 weeks after some of you, so can't imagine a flood of jacket orders came in that short time frame to turn the relative quick turnaround into a standard one. Who knows. Maybe with some of those covid shutdowns late in summer/early Sept or staff issues, supply issues, who knows. Maybe their efforts are going to restocking their store shelves to get ready for the season. On paper, going by the 10-12, I should be getting mine last week Oct, first week of Nov.

It's all good though. Was supposed to be my 50th bday present anyway which isn't even until January :rolleyes:
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,388
Maybe their efforts are going to restocking their store shelves to get ready for the season.
I noticed they did a size run of brg Cyclones for this German retailer called stuff.

In the description it says they made the torso longer... For an elegant look without getting too short. Too short for who!? It looks like a sausage lol. It's like I'm looking at a Japanese copy of a LL, yet it's the real deal. They totally ruined a great jacket imo.

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Harris HTM

One Too Many
Messages
1,603
Location
the Netherlands
comment on boots UNDER trousers reminds me of the early goth scene. The London style at the time was all androgyny, super slim trousers or jeans, teased hair, Bowie-esque make-up and wrinkle picker boots. Meanwhile, up in Leeds, the Sisters of Mercy were deep into the Stooges and Motörhead, wearing lots of leather, sunglasses, sideburns and biker hair, big harness boots over jeans and beaten-up wide brim hats.
I always loved the spaghetti western influenced leather outfit of the mighty Fields of the Nephilim - especially when they poured flour on them so it looks like desert dust.
Badges and pins - now there is a look that hasn’t aged well.
Being a metal fan for almost 35 years now (and let's say of it's most extreme rather than traditional taste, thrash, death, doom/death, funeral doom), I can verify that the outfit tight jeans - perfecto type jacket - pins - denim vest with patches still is the dominant one.
 
Messages
15,679
I noticed they did a size run of brg Cyclones for this German retailer called stuff.

In the description it says they made the torso longer... For an elegant look without getting too short. Too short for who!? It looks like a sausage lol. It's like I'm looking at a Japanese copy of a LL, yet it's the real deal. They totally ruined a great jacket imo.

View attachment 367969 View attachment 367968

This practice of elongating vintage motorcycle styles is ridiculous. It's some kind of a trend to make the jacket more appealing to the most casual normie which in process makes it unappealing to everyone who would actually care about buying it. Thurston is doing the same thing, stretching all their jackets.
There's nothing elegant about it. It just looks proportional.
 

Pandemic

One Too Many
Messages
1,411
Location
In The Flat Field
I always loved the spaghetti western influenced leather outfit of the mighty Fields of the Nephilim - especially when they poured flour on them so it looks like desert dust.

I’d forgotten about their leather jackets! When I picture them in my mind, from that era, I always think of big cowboy dusters. I spot at least one LL here:

D2E8A3CB-FCF9-42C5-A78E-16FDAA859119.jpeg
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,159
I noticed they did a size run of brg Cyclones for this German retailer called stuff.

In the description it says they made the torso longer... For an elegant look without getting too short. Too short for who!? It looks like a sausage lol. It's like I'm looking at a Japanese copy of a LL, yet it's the real deal. They totally ruined a great jacket imo.

View attachment 367969 View attachment 367968
that does seem off, especially without any taper in the body or from the shoulders. Those do look like low rise jeans and the model probably already has a longer torso.

Rip was trying to get me to add a little more on the length of my Lightning. I added some, but not as much as he recommended. I'm using my Commando for reference which is on the extreme side, but not too bad since I don't ride. Basically came up an inch from there which I think is the perfect length for me and how I wear my jeans, etc. We'll see, hopefully in the next few weeks LOL.

But I am curious because I think the cross zip I do with Greg will also be longer, but definitely not long like above. I find 25.5-26 seems to be about perfect for me.
 

BloodEagle

A-List Customer
Messages
313
Location
UK
No word yet on my LL order -

No word yet on my LL order - I can imagine at least another months wait - no problem, although I sincerely hope they dont try to sneak in a longer torso/body length like the german retailed LL linked to above haha - it looks atrocious that long! How to ruin the whole look of a jacket with just a few extra cms (or in this case, inches!)
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,690
Location
London, UK
Chumba had their moments.

Fascinating about the Clash Boots. I had no idea engineers had a recent youth culture revival. My interest stemmed from old James Dean pics, though they are certainly in keeping with the vibe of the band. Very cool! By the time I discover the punk scene, the only acceptable footwear was tall DM boots and narrow jeans or maybe stapress drainpipes.

I wonder what brand of boots they had?

It would be something to know! I would guess one of the big labels at the time - Chippewa and Frye are the two names I've always heard associated with Jimmy Dean and Marlon Brando, but it could have been anything that was available at the time, really... I'm guessing it was something decent, because they could afford decent by that point, but Paul would also have had a good handle on the quality stuff as I believe he actually did ride even then.

@dannyk is a pro on the history of Clash, including the fashion part, yeah. That's a good bit of info, Edward. I haven't considered it until now but yeah, makes sense they'd wear skinny jeans back then with no way of Engineers ever fitting underneath. Worked with service boots but they fell outta favor with the Punk crowd at the time. Sid wore his Engineers' over jeans, right?

He did indeed.

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The Littledean Jail (oddly Americanised spelling; for the period - this was originally a late 18th Century prison - it should be 'gaol', the correct English spelling) in Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire is a private "Crime Museum" which also has an exhibit on punk rock. A dubious connection to criminality, if aided by Vicious' 'alleged' homicide (the case against him was dropped by the NYPD after his suicide; no-one else was ever charged) of Nancy Spungen. They have in recent years added a pair of engineers formerly owned and worn by Vicious. These were authenticated by official Vicious biographer Alan Parker, and are one of three known pairs owned by Vicious.

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The "Engineer boots" stamp on the side and those soles are pretty distinctive if anyone recognises the brand. I doubt Sid gave much thought to quality or anything else as long as they looked right. I always remember his boots somehow as being taller than they actually were. While I obviously don't know which pair he's wearing in any given photo, they always look like they have fairly slim shafts (markedly moreso than my Grinders back when I wore drainpipes - and there's no way I could get 40s-cut jeans tucked into those, believe me, I tried for a 60s theme party once...).

https://crimethroughtimecollection....o-featuring-sids-treasured-leather-biker-boo/

This practice of elongating vintage motorcycle styles is ridiculous. It's some kind of a trend to make the jacket more appealing to the most casual normie which in process makes it unappealing to everyone who would actually care about buying it. Thurston is doing the same thing, stretching all their jackets.
There's nothing elegant about it. It just looks proportional.

It's partly trying to appeal to a mainstream fashion crowd who don't understand the jackets aren't too short, it's their trousers are too low... Also, a more 'modern' motorcycle crowd seem to like a longer jacket. I remember when I turned 21, my parents tried to buy me a "real" motorcycle jacket. Didn't happen in the end. Bless them, they first picked up a jacket which.... well, think the one Arnie wore in T3. It was what people were really wearing on motorcycles then, so it was in fairness "a real biker jacket", but it was a style vacuum. All I wanted was a Perfecto style.... I think I tried it on, amidst much cajoling, for all of five minutes, but I hated it. The shop, when we returned it, said they didn't stock any of the jackets I liked any more because they were "too short, like a boob tube on the bike". This was the era when most bikers, at least in NI (home of the North West 200, of course - up there with the IoM TT Races on that circuit) were into racing bikes you had to crouch down over. When Lewis introduced the SuperMonza in 1978, they had elongated the design for this reason. This was, they had redesigned the jacket around a longer length - they hadn't just stuck a few more inches on it. This version of the Cyclone looks dreadful: totally out of proportion. I can't imagine it would even be particularly comfortable to wear closed - that "waistband" would be past my hips. Yuck. Reminds me of the cheap fashion copies of the Perfecto that were big a couple of years ago, hanging down well past the trouser pockets.
 

TheBigEraser

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
I noticed they did a size run of brg Cyclones for this German retailer called stuff.

In the description it says they made the torso longer... For an elegant look without getting too short. Too short for who!? It looks like a sausage lol. It's like I'm looking at a Japanese copy of a LL, yet it's the real deal. They totally ruined a great jacket imo.

View attachment 367969 View attachment 367968
I was at Stuf-f beginning of September and they told me they intentionally ordered the Japanese T version (tight-fit) so technically you are looking at a Japanese LL :)
 

Khilij

Familiar Face
Messages
70

Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,690
Location
London, UK
It's odd, how they won't allow us to order a Lightning without the sleeve pocket, yet they do allow stockists to order jackets with sausage proportions.

They don't? That's a shame. That zip pocket on the sleeve was first introduced on the Twin Track Bronx in 66, created for the 10th anniversary of the original Bronx. It gradually spread out across the range at that point. I know it has become something of a signature look for Lewis since, but in all honesty, given my marked preference is for pre-1960 designs, I would vastly rather have a Lightning with the original, 1958 spec as first launched that year. The logo patch is less of a significant deviation from that than the sleeve pocket. It's not exactly a deal breaker for me, though it would make buying new rather than waiting for the right used jacket to come up at the right time more of a priority. I guess it's to do with their production line - perhaps they consider it would be too much disruption to the pattern cutting to keep fishing them out here and there before the pocket-cut is made.
 

Bahabp100

Practically Family
Messages
710
Neil young with full pork chop sideburns in 1991 wearing a black fringe jacket with hair on? Panels . Cool!
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