Dr. JeKyL and Mr. LeXOL

[johnnyjohnny]

two sides to everything, including LeXOL...

great stuff, but i've noticed that it comes through and spots the liner to varying degrees, most especially the way i've been sLathering the stuff on...

i noticed a few little spots dabbing through on thick goat a-2s like the cockpitusa and uswings...and very very little dots on the horsehide a-2s i've done...but it was a real flood on the very thin-skinned vintage cooper a-2, which is known for having the thinnest goatskin of all a-2s...

the spots usually come off with repeated careful dabbings of cool water (don't use something like 'shout' or other spot removers!)...but the water method can take time if you've done what i had done, and just slathered on the lexol so it noticeably came through

i now will be a very modest in my applications of the stuff...rather than slathering on a big sloppy paper towel of it, i'll just put on enough to work into the surface and move on

wonder if anyone else has found this problem...or is no one as much of an over-do it type as i seem to be?

i know i'll keep it in check...don't want to see Dr. JeKyL on the inside of my leather jacket liners anymore

johnnyjohnny

 

[BellyTank]

Gotta be careful.
Watch out for that cockpitusa.
Whatever that is- sounds nasty.


B
T

 

[scotrace]

Lexol for car seats.

Pecards for leather jackets.

 

[johnnyjohnny]

uh oHHHHHHHHHH!

watch ouT mr. beLLyTank...jacky cLyman will be coming after you in a p-51 mustang if she hears your comment...



(p.s. they are actually extremely nice over there, incredible customer service...at least she won't be gunning for me

johnnyjohnny

 

[johnnyjohnny]

PeCARD's or R.W. WiLLiAMS for leather care?

to get serious about this leather care...leXoL is just too much of a hassle the way it penetrates into surrounding cloth and marks it...

pecard's sounds great, but the process of buffing it in, waiting all night, then buffing it out is a bit time consumptive, especially with obsessive compuLsive jacket buyers who have at least a dozen jackets

this r.w. williams stuff from australia sounds really good, a cream so it won't perambulate into surrounding liners and cloth cuffs and such, and according to one horse tack thread, it melts into the leather as you put it on, using your hand (warmth of your hand, unless you're a cold blooded sob), so it doesn't need to be buffed off...

so far r.w. williams is sounding the best...any feedback or experience with it, or other products? someone mentioned http://www.bee-natural.com, but i couldn't find anywhere on the net that said it didn't need to have a buffing process after drying, so i'm wary of all that time...

johnnyjohnny

 

[John in Covina]

Many light applications versus dunk in a tank full of lexol?

More is not always better.

Too much is not enough.

 

[scotrace]

It really isn't a hassle to use Pecard. Just get some on your hands and smear it on lightly, forget it for a few days (this is a good time of year to do it (in my area) because it's too hot to wear leather all the time anyway), and wipe off the remaining bits. Easy. BUT you really have to be careful next to linings and knits. Keep it on the leather only or it'll leave a greasy spot. It won't soak through to the lining, but if you get it directly on the lining, you'll have trouble.

The results are well worth it, honest. It is remarkable what that goop can do to get rid of light scuffs and bring out the color, softening the hide. It also will soften your hands nicely!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

pecard's sounds great, but the process of buffing it in, waiting all night, then buffing it out is a bit time consumptive, especially with obsessive compuLsive jacket buyers who have at least a dozen jackets

But you only need one treatment every 3-5 years or so.

bk

 

[dmcburn75]

Check out leatherique rejuvinator oil. http://www.leatherique.com/products.htm.

I originally used this stuff on leather auto interiors then tried it on my old Lost worlds jacket. It smells just like new leather and really deep cleans, driving out unseen dirt and grim. Wipe off the oil with pristine clean and you are good to go.

 

[Smithy]

this r.w. williams stuff from australia sounds really good

RM Williams Saddle and Leather Dressing is brilliant Johnny. You can use it on anything, jackets, boots, leather car seats, saddles, luggage, whatever. It doesn't go rancid and it's non-chemical, and it does a sterling job. I use it on everything leather I own and love it.

 

[HDRnR]

If you like RM Williams then how about Fieblings Saddle Soap ? I love the RM Williams but shipping from Australia is bit pricey for just a tin of saddle soap.

 

[Smithy]

If you like RM Williams then how about Fieblings Saddle Soap ? I love the RM Williams but shipping from Australia is bit pricey for just a tin of saddle soap.

Thing is, Johnny is in Europe (Germany I think) and RM have shops there (or at least shops which carry RM products). He won't have to pay shipping from Oz.

 

[Sefton]

Would I need to use a leather cleaner before applying the Pecards to my jacket? Also does Pecards darken at all? I've got a nice bit of fading on my Aero after years of wear and I don't want it to get darker. Thanks!

 

[johnnyjohnny]

giving my SchoTT CPR

now don't laugh at me, but i finally decided to use something called Leather CPR...no, i didn't need any defib paddles to apply the stuff

actually, i checked out all the advice regarding leather, and two rather contradictory things came through...1. pecards was the rosetta stone of leather care...and, 2. petroleum products should not be used on leather

seeing that pecards states they use petroleum products in their stuff, 2. trumped 1., and i finally chose leather cpr...

i got this great used jacket, a schott luftwaffe-style motorcycle jacket (only missing the top and bottom buckle, everything else is, well, hartmann-esque), off ebay...so the experiments will begin on this

just opened 'cpr', and unlike the watery leXoL which drenched through the leather on various a-2s, into the liner, this stuff is creamy...actually almost the same consistency as stirred yogurt...so i don't think it will gravitate to the liner through the leather like 'charlie' across the DMZ...

will be posting again after i'm done...

johnnyjohnny

p.s. yah, i know, it's sat night and i'm oiling a motorcycle jacket...:rage:

 

[AlanC]

A couple of options to look at are Leather Therapy and Obenauf's.

 

[John in Covina]

Silence of the A-2's

Just opened 'cpr', and unlike the watery leXoL which drenched through the leather on various a-2s, into the liner, this stuff is creamy...actually almost the same consistency as stirred yogurt...
p.s. yah, i know, it's sat night and i'm oiling a motorcycle jacket...:rage:

************
It places the lotion on the jacket.

It places the lotion on the jacket, or it gets the hose again.

 

[johnnyjohnny]

i was SCHoTT, and survived CPR

just finished CPR on the used schott jacket i got on ebay...

the leather cpr stuff definitely gives the enjoyment of a real leather treatment, cleaning and conditioning, vs. squirting on lexol...i never had a problem with lexol and the leather, but that stuff is sooo liquidy it seeped into the liner through the leather...

the leather cpr has a more gooey consistency, so no squirting...it's like putting stirred yogurt on your jacket, using the sponge that comes with...dries within 30 minutes, and you can really slather the stuff on without fearing it's going to wet all the way through to the liner, like with lexol...

the schott wasn't thrashed at all, but seemed like some heavy cowhide that hadn't recently been conditioned, but otherwise (except for one scuff through the top leather layer) was in nice shape, but needing some conditioning

the cpr stuff got rather sticky, and tacky, as i put a lot on and kept sponging it in, but quickly worked into the leather and then started drying...

this was nOt like the lexol, which made the leather nice, and conditioned, but havie a kind of fabric quality (it moisturized, but didn't seem to give the leather any body that would thicken it, or make it look like it had some inherent leather stiffness...even on a few new a-2s)

the cpr, probably because it has some body to it, made the leather look new, and nicely conditioned, but had more of a mat quality than the 'lotioned' look of lexol...and thankfully (aside from not leaking through to the liner), the cpr gave the leather some body and thicker/stiffer sense to it...like you were really wearing leather, not one of those thin leather motorcycle shirts, which was the direction i sensed from lexol

i'm sure lexol is great in keeping your jacket preserved, but this cpr seems to be more of a classic treatment, both in the way it goes on, and the quality the jacket has after the stuff dries...and it dries rather quickly

i think the leather cpr website says you can buff your jacket out after the product dries, but it dries totally evenly, with a bit of natural shine, but a rather mat quality, so i don't see any need for buffing or any more work on this...the stuff seems to take less time than lexol...

i like it...next i'll be putting it on some new a-2 and g-1 jackets

 

[scotrace]

I have a tub of that stuff also (from Restoration Hardware). And Lederbalsalm, Lexol, boot oil, mink oil, neatsfoot, LL Bean Waterproof Dressing. A box of leather care products.

Honest, really, Pecard's is better stuff. And that's the last I'll nag.

 

[HDRnR]

On my Langlitz leathers I use the Langlitz leather dressing which is made by Snowshoe laboratories, it says it contains silicone. Seems very similar to Pecards imo. I figure Langlitz knows what they are talking about when it comes to leather, you rub the stuff on lightly and them wipe it down the next day. They recommend doing this several times a year.

 

[John in Covina]

That's slick.

The problem with Silicone is it is very slipperry and can cause stitching to come undone. That's why you should not get Armorall on stitching either.