Five Star Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead, Sep 23, 2020.

  1. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    London

    All the specs have been set, they are now working on the pattern, Not sure if he will need more info at this stage
     
  2. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    marker2037, ton312, RILO and 3 others like this.
  3. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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    I have an approx. 18 year old fabric jacket from Boss that once looked like a leather jacket. It had a coating on the fabric. Unfortunately, cleaning had destroyed it. The jacket resembles a Cafe Racer. I figured I could actually send it to Shawn and have it built for me. I could imagine Tony's red russet as leather, or suede.
    And since suede is rather thin, I got the idea to order a lining from suede. Similar to an unlined jacket.
    Is that sensible or a stupid idea?
     
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  4. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    There are many grades of suede - I would go with a goat suede which is ultra tough. I had toyed with getting an unlined jacket from Shawn. I have had them in the past and I like how they wear.
     
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  5. torfjord

    torfjord One Too Many

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    1,202
    Since you asked, I think a suede lined leather jacket is a stupid idea. I mean suede is basically the underside of the hide... why not go for an unlined jacket instead? The suede would only add weight and bulk to the jacket. It would not make it easier to slip on, it would not add any warmth.
     
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  6. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead Practically Family

    Messages:
    683
    I had a Schott cafe (P571, check it out for photos) that was unlined, so basically the underside of the leather. Dont know the true definition of suede, but it felt like suede. It's tricky with the sleeve, getting it on and all that, but I liked it. After 10 wears or so, the grain settles and it smooths out. Probably wouldn't suggest for a tropical climate, but I think you're in Austria so won't get too sticky.
     
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  7. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    11,571
    Location:
    Chicago
    I sold my unlined suede type III b/c it was such a PIA to put on and off (if I had anything other than a t shirt on). Now if it’s rough out (finished side in) like my y’2 it’s a much easier process to put on and take off.
     
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  8. Claybertrand

    Claybertrand A-List Customer

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    475
    You're out of control bro!!! :):):):)
     
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  9. ton312

    ton312

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    11,571
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    100%. I actually think the next one will be the best yet;)
     
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  10. Claybertrand

    Claybertrand A-List Customer

    Messages:
    475
    Your designs keep getting better and better man. Can't wait to see the next gem!
     
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  11. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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    Thank you for your opinions. I understand that suede as lining is a stupid idea. I almost thought to myself ;)
    I'll ask shawn what is the thickest suede he has and then think about it. maybe with quilted lining.
     
  12. Jin431

    Jin431 One Too Many

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    Maybe/hopefully he will offer rough out horse/goat/cow in the future, I'll be very interested with that
     
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  13. CRP

    CRP New in Town

    Messages:
    36
    Fivestar Cafe Racer - I ordered a modified version of the Cafe Racer Fivestar had on their website in black premium goat. The original was based on the buco j100 and was ordered by another member. I had the upper zip pockets eliminated and added lower zip pockets as well as an extra internal pocket for functional preference. The zippers are YKK #10, all hardware is dark gunmetal, and lining is rayon. I used the measurement method ton312 and MrProper outlined and sent them to Shawn for his recommendation on a size to accommodate a light sweater underneath. Since I didn't have another jacket base my measurements on, I went with Shawn's suggestions for a 6 inch spread between body and jacket measurements. Attached pictures are the result.
     

    Attached Files:

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  14. CRP

    CRP New in Town

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    36
    I love the jacket leather, hardware, and stitching and overall am very pleased. For my next jacket, I would definitely stick with the 6 inch spread for the chest measurement and maybe add a 1/2 inch (especially in premium 1.2-1.4 goat). For the waist, I would definitely go down to a 4 inch spread between body and jacket measurement. I would also have the sleeves attached STRAIGHT AND INLINE with the shoulder line (see MrProper link to JimO's comments: https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/page-44#post-289143).
    I talked to Shawn Ali about sending the jacket back and he was willing to do it, but he said it was an easy fix if I could find someone locally. The leather is thick, soft, but tough. The local tailor tried to put a needle through by the seam and couldn't (they promised to use existing holes after taking material out of the back). I have send it out and we'll see how it goes. Attached are pictures of how much extra material is in the waist. Fivestar CR Front (Waist In).JPG Fivestar CR Back (Waist In).JPG
     
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  15. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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    ^^
    Nice Jacket. I didn't think black goat would work so well.
    Of course it's always a question of personal preferences, but I would prefer a tighter fit for a CR. On the hip I would only add 3" and at p2p max 4" and I would tapered the sleeves.
     
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  16. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead Practically Family

    Messages:
    683
    most of us haven't gotten our first jacket perfect, so you're in good company.

    It's definitely a preference thing, but 6 inches is way too big IMO. I think 3-4 chest, and like 1.5-2.5 body. Bottom hem I go pretty skinny, like 1. But I live in Los Angeles, so I'm not layering under jacket, pretty much can wear with Tshirt or thin long sleeve/hoodie.

    The build looks good though. I was working on a very elaborate mock up of a J100 but put it aside. Just decided to do it top of the line with Field Leathers and call it a day. There's a couple frankenstein sort of builds in the military genre I'm thinking about though for fun jackets, so I'd go back to 5 Star for those. But now having access to several more jackets, I think the leather is fine, but it's not wow factor. Not expecting magic for $300 so it's not like I'm disappointed, you just need to understand what you're getting. I think the create your own model is well worth the money for sure. And it's just damn fun. But I wouldn't be surprised to see some disappointed threads coming up. You really need to understand the measurements. Luckily a lot of people have paved the road, so if you put the time into reading this thread and a few others, you'll definitely increase the odds in your favor.
     
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  17. CRP

    CRP New in Town

    Messages:
    36
    I hear ya bro. Fivestar for me is the perfect place to experiment with my fit without costing me a fortune in headache and time. Pretty happy with this first attempt and can hopefully dial in the next one. I just love getting the exact thing I want to my measurements (and fit is everything). Granted horsehide or some of the other leathers may be more exciting, but nothing seems to be as comfortable or durable as goat. Hopefully, I can get the shoulder peaks smoothed out as well and then all will be perfect in the world. Its scratching my itch for now! :)
     
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  18. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    11,571
    Location:
    Chicago
    I think that looks pretty damn good!! Little extra room in the body but overall solid!!
     
  19. Bahabp100

    Bahabp100 One of the Regulars

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    267
    My FiveStar has suede lining on the cuffs and collars only. For contrast . Using the “golden” color. I guess just cause I could I did.
    9A5B831B-C8C4-41E6-BAEE-47A803B589C5.jpeg 9F43FD2A-3441-4924-82F3-79AE3FD730FD.jpeg
     
  20. Hobbes1

    Hobbes1 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    126
    I also want a cafe racer from Five-star. I'm struggling with measurements though. My previous jacket from them fits tighter unless I have only light T-shirt or wool shirt underneath. I would like to be able to layer a t-shirt and sweater under the CR without it being too baggy overall.
    Are you saying you got your body measurements plus 6 inches in the chest and waist? I feel like your jacket looks good but would be too roomy of a fit for my liking. Could you please clarify how Shawn applied the 6 inch addition? Thanks!
     
    JustinW likes this.

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