Real McCoys Buco J-100 / LVC Buco

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Superfluous, Feb 24, 2014.

  1. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    A couple of years ago, I became interested in Buco style leather jackets. I tried on a Himel Kensington but, having exalted and owned only softer leathers up until then, it was more rigid than I was accustomed to and I therefore passed. I ended up purchasing a LVC Buco. I really enjoyed the LVC and wore it extensively, but in the back of my mind I quietly yearned for something more.

    Over the ensuing two years, I came to appreciate, and even prefer, more rigid leathers, including horsehide, and my yearning for something more ultimately led me to the Real McCoys Buco J-100. I learned that, at the 2013 Inspiration show, RMC brought a J-100 with them and offered it for sale at the end of the show. Therefore, I arrived early to the 2014 Inspiration, cash in pocket, hoping that RMC might again have a J-100 with them and it might be my size. I was thrilled to discover that RMC had one J-100 with them at Inspiration and it was exactly my size. The RMC representative (I forgot his name) confirmed that the jacket was available so long as I picked it up at the end of the show. Touchdown!!!! After walking around Inspiration for a while, I returned to the RMC booth to tender payment. During the interim, Kent Tsujimoto – RMC’s Chief Production Manager and the founder’s son – arrived at the booth. Kent informed me that the J-100 I desired was already spoken for and not available (it had been pre-sold). Needless to say, I was very disappointed. Two days later, I saw Kent again at the Rising Sun party. Kent’s father, Hitoshi Tsujimoto, was also present. Kent told me that he was sorry about the earlier misunderstanding and he would like to address the situation. Thereafter, Hitoshi approached me and promised to make things right. Kent and Hitoshi could not have been more gracious. A week later, my new RMC Buco J-100 arrived from Japan. HUGE thanks to Kent!!!

    I love this jacket!!! The leather is unreal. From the stitching to the zippers, every detail is exquisite. The night I received the jacket, I wore it for seven straight hours while playing poker, and constantly flexed my elbows to break it in (unfortunately, I was so enamored with the jacket that I did not focus enough on the game and I lost more than the cost of the jacket – fortunately, I won it back three days later).

    I am not sure yet what I will do with my LVC:

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    As much as I enjoyed the LVC, the RMC J-100 is in a different league:


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    So cool that RMC licensed the Buco name.

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    HatlyMan likes this.
  2. Plumbline

    Plumbline One Too Many

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    cool jackets ( both of them ) te RMC is truely a work of art and up there in the motorcycle repro arena and on a par IMHO with JC's reproduction A-2's in the flight jacket arena. The LVC is not a bad copy ... in fact it's a really good version ..... but you're right the RMC is another level of coolness.

    Thanks for sharing .... wear it / them well.
     
  3. Mike B.

    Mike B. New in Town

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    Superfluous,

    Great jacket! I'm now where you were two years ago looking for the right cafe racer. I've admired both the RMC J-100 and the Himel Kensington. How would you compare the two? Also, in the RMC J-100, I feel I'm either a 40 or 42. Would you mind sharing your personal measurements and how the J-100 fits?

    Thanks!
     
  4. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Thanks. The Himel Kensington is also a great Buco jacket. The thing that bothered me about the Kensington is the lack of leather underneath the cuff zipper. When you unzip the cuff zipper, the zipper is exposed to your watch below. This might be more authentic. However, I collect watches and I do not want my watches exposed to a course zipper. Himel would have customized the Kensington had I so desired, but I opted for the RMC J-100 instead. Both jackets are made from Shinki HH, which many consider the best HH on the planet. Both jackets have exquisite details and craftsmanship. Its a very close call and you can't go wrong with either one.
     
  5. ProteinNerd

    ProteinNerd My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Have you looked at Diamond Daves Buco J-100 option? Mine should be here in about 2 weeks and I'll give a review then. There is a great video review by on of the FL members from a few months ago if you look for it. DD seems to be a lot more reasonably priced (if you call US$1000 reasonable lol). More so than the US$2000 for the RMC or about US$1500 for the Himel.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
  6. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I am aware of Diamond Dave, but have never seen one of his jackets in person. I do not think he uses Shinki HH (used by RMC, Himel, Good Wear). Moreover, the stitching in the photos on his website does not appear as precise/clean as RMC/Himel. Lastly, I see that DD uses an original Buco label -- I know that RMC has a license to use the Buco label -- I would be interested to know if DD also has a license. Again, I have never handled a DD jacket, so my observations are limited.
     
  7. Mike B.

    Mike B. New in Town

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    That's what I noticed, also. The stitching just did not seem as well finished. But, I'm no expert and I've seen other photos of DD's jackets that looked great. I'm just moved by the RMC and Himel cafe racers in a way I'm just not by other brands.

    Superfluous, how did the 42 in RMC J-100 fit for your chest size and sleeve length. Thanks, again for the info on the Himel.
     
  8. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    The second one is really nice. I think the detail of having the hanging zip pull on is critical. The conventional zip pull on the first one spoils the look.
     
  9. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I picked up a couple of RMC loopwheeled t-shirts. Great dimensions and fit. Good excuse to breakout the RMC Buco -- lovin this jacket!

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    HatlyMan and coolruehl like this.
  10. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck One Too Many

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    DD does indeed use Shinki HH as well as other hides at times. I will have a DD j-100 relatively soon. Hopefully I can post pics to show off the stitching.
     
  11. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Congratulations Dude! IMHO, given the availability of less expensive premium HH, DD's use of Shinki HH illustrates his pursuit of excellence. Looking forward to seeing your photos. Moreover, if you ever find yourself one county to the north, I would love to see the jacket in person.
     
  12. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck One Too Many

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    I agree. I can't say personally whether his stitching and overall construction is equal to the likes of DH and RMC, but even if it is slightly behind those two, I won't be upset. I am very fortunate and grateful that DD offers my favorite jacket design of all time with my favorite hide. I'm surprised I haven't seen a larger thread on this site about J-100s or even cafe racers in general. Maybe I can start one when I get mine. Your example is of course absolutely beautiful and it was jackets like yours that made me search for a J-100. I've always wanted to go to Canada and certainly wouldn't mind having a leather jacket meet up there.
     
  13. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    LOL! One COUNTY to the north, not COUNTRY. Think Dodgers.
     
  14. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck One Too Many

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    Well I feel stupid… but then again that's better than having to go up that far. I'm actually in LA right now. I go to school at LMU. Though with that misread I can't believe I got in at all!
     
  15. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    1988 grad.
     
  16. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck One Too Many

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    Haha now that's a great coincidence. That certainly warrants a meet up once I get my jacket.
     
  17. dadonn

    dadonn New in Town

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    Good to see Diamond Dave getting some good press. I'm the one who posted a video link and review of his J-100 a couple of months back so I'm something of a fanboy/proponent of the man. I've also been able to see and touch both Real McCoy and Himel's J-100s at Blue and Green and Self-Edge respectively. Unfortunately, the size 46 was not even close to fitting me, particularly the Real McCoy. When comparing the construction quality and stitching, I did not feel that there was an observable difference to my eyes but I did not have my Diamond Dave jacket when I saw the other two. Come to think of it, my retrospective memory with respect to stitching isn't worth much so please ignore. What I can confidently speak to is the difference in the horsehide as I remember these differences quite well. Part of the reason for my clarity is due to the fact that all of them are roughly the same weight, about 3.25 oz horsehide. Dave's is more supple, breaks in easier, not quite as dense and grainier. My jacket weighs 5.5 pounds so it is no lightweight. Himel's offering had the most sheen to it if you will. An almost waxed quality to it. It made the jacket slightly cleaner looking and the shinki was clearly denser so more rigid. McCoy's jacket did not quite have the shine of the Himel but is a more pronounced black than Dave's. Dave's horsehide has more of a vintage feel and more reminiscent of traditional leather while still retaining the sensibilities that makes horsehide so sought after. Now, this may sound like Dave's horsehide is favorable to the shinki (although he does use Shinki now as well). It's not favorable. It's different. While words like "waxed," "sheen," and "shine," don't sound particularly complimentary in describing leather, the shinki gave the jackets a sort of untouchable, regal air. It is almost like a new car...there's something so cool about that showroom vehicle being in pristine shape. A shinki horsehide jacket does not wear like a favorite pair of denim-blue-fade-to-the-sky jeans. It wears fitted, a touch stiff but the cut of these patterns make them sit so nicely even if the wearer is a tad uncomfortable during the break in process. The color of the shinki looks like it's been marinating longer and absorbed the character of the dye on a deeper level than other hides. How deep? "Deeper than Atlantis/deeper than the sea floor traveled by the mantas," to quote the X-Clan.

    In summary- the color of the shinki has more character in my opinion than other horse hides I've seen, but to develop the character of the jacket will take more work and wear than other hides.
     
  18. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck One Too Many

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    Well hopefully when I receive mine I will be able to post detailed enough pictures in order to put this stitching debate to rest. As I have said before, even if the stitching is slightly below quality of RMC I won't be upset due to the massive price difference. Plus, I have seen close pictures of DD's work and the stitching looks pretty great to me.

    I agree that from what I have seen, Shinki does have almost a regal look when brand new. The color is incredibly rich. However, the break in is more extreme than other hides such as Horween Chromexcel in terms of 'patina.' I will be quite excited to break mine in.

    I remember your video. What was the hide he used for yours specifically?
     
  19. dadonn

    dadonn New in Town

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    The short answer is I don't know. I know he and John Chapman purchase their horsehide together so that was good enough for me. I also recollect the jacket getting delayed because he rejected two batches of horse hide and was supremely pleased with the one he got. By the time it got me, I was thrilled because it had more heft than the previous batch and I was very impressed. I had to return one jacket because of fit and got kind of lucky; I'm not a fan of the lighter weight horsehides for whatever reason and the non-fitting jacket was a lighter weight.
     
  20. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck One Too Many

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    Well that is very lucky for you! I have heard that JC has used other hides than Shinki, but I do know that his main provider is Shinki so I wonder what that batch of hides was from.
     

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