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Discussion in 'Suits' started by resortes805, Nov 18, 2011.
A trouser consists mainly of four pieces of cloth.. When the fabric is laid out for cutting, instead of placing the pattern on it and marking out the four pieces separately, the cloth is folded in half with the right sides together.
The cutter then marks the pattern, the back and front leg; cuts through both layers and is left with two and two identical front and back pieces, except for one thing: if both are to be laid with the right side up, one of the two pieces must be turned, making it the "mirror image" of the other.
Striped and checked cloths are, or should be, entirely symmetrical, which means that when you fold the cloth along a stripe, the top and bottom layer matches all the way from the fold to the edge. When the pieces are cut from a double layer like this, the location of the stripes on the left will match the right leg and thus meet along the seat seam.
This picture might make more sense: http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/CPG/3/gallery/images/03_019.jpg (not going to make it visible in fear of diluting the 30's suits thread with ancient trousers.)
(Dia. 1 is how the pieces are marked on the cloth, dia. 2,3,4,5 are the pieces cut, separated and laid out with the same sides up. Imagine the fold line between diagrams 3 and 4.)
I only mention it as it's not very often I see it done this well in vintage suits, which are very often - like modern suits - quite badly made.
I think that many vintage suits will need to have some alterations done to them before they can be worn - and many (cheap) alteration tailors out there may lack the necessary skills, patience and attention to detail to get these things right.
Suits of Interest from the "Show Us Your Suits Thread" page 61-110
They no longer design suits like these. The quality is so awesome. The gangster style is classic. I love it.
Dark Brown with Blue Pinstripes!
This is probably bordering on late 1930's/early 40's. It is a very dark brown wool with very subtle light brown flecks and blue pinstripes. The blue is very hard to read under low lighting conditions but when you get this beauty into the light… wow, does that blue pop! It reminds me somewhat of the one pictured in the 1938/1939 Ward’s Catalog. It was sold at The Hub department store that opened in 1904 in Steubenville, Ohio. It used to fit me perfectly but I have gained a few pounds and am currently working it off! Except for the really nice fabric, it has no unusual or outstanding features. I purchased this one about eight years ago at a San Pedro store called Cheap, when it was operated by a wonderful man named Mike. Mike would buy out local estates and bring the items to his store the same day. I usually had the first pick and things really were cheap! Unfortunately, Mike began having health problems and the place is now operated by someone else. Let’s just say… the place is not what it used to be. I rarely visit the store anymore and haven’t found anything since Mike went away. I sincerely hope he is doing well. He was one cool guy!
now that is a very brooding, handsome fabric... just the sort i like.
beautiful lapel shape too. tailoring geeks, notice how they've curved the stripes of the facings (lapels/revers) to the 'belly' (curve) of the lapel shape. many tailors insist this is the only way it should be done. many don't do it. there's no right or wrong.
Outstanding suit. I like the colour combination, too.
A detail question, is the top buttonhole on the trousers worked all the way through, or only through a facing to hide the top button? Also, could you provide a closeup of the lapel buttonhole?
Here you go!
Found this at the thrift shop today. Great fabric and buttons.
Thanks. That's an interesting treatment on the end of the buttonhole. Would you say it was made that way, without the fan at the end?
The stitches have come loose. Notice the gimp (blueish) that should be covered by these stitches.
Absolutely gorgeous! :eusa_clap I have yet to find a SB jacket with peaked lapels...
Now you'll need to buy these spectators and it would make for a spectacular pairing (even though the shoes are a shade darker)...
Yes, I saw the gimp, but the spacing made me think that perhaps it was intentional, giving two straight lines of stitches without the end. Also, they appear to be the same on each lapel.