Thedi Leathers custom cross zip jacket review. #MTC-127915 in Brucuato Horsehide

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Marc mndt, May 31, 2020.

  1. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,082
    December last year I sold my Eastman Californian jacket to one of the Lounge members. It was too small for me so I decided to go buy a new one, one size up. I went to one of Eastman's stockist in France and tried a size 42 which was a perfect fit. Unfortunately, the brand-new jacket did not possess half the character of the jacket I just sold. My old jacket had beautiful grainy leather, the new one looked very flat. Therefore I decided to have another look around...here on the lounge.

    I came across Red Devil's review of his Thedi jacket (https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/thedi-mtc-127915-in-tan-buffalo.91938/) I loved the beeswax finish on it which, in my opinion, adds tons of character without overdoing it or making the jacket look 'distressed'. I also saw photos of HD's Thedi jackets, one in tan with buttons and the grey one with a zipper. I made up my mind, my next jacket was going to be a Thedi.

    One of Thedi's stockist in Germany had a jacket in stock with a similar design. It was a crosszip with a shearling vest and collar. Me and my girlfriend made the trip to Germany so I could try it on. Unfortunately, it just didn't fit: size large was too tight in the chest, XL was too long and too wide in the waist.

    Having my mind set on buying a Thedi jacket, I decided to send Theodoros an e-mail. Theodoros was very helpful and told me he could sew a custom jacket for me. I just had to send him my measurements (chest circumference, shoulder circumference, waist etc etc). He also asked for two photos of me wearing a t-shirt, one taken from the front and one taken from the side. Furthermore I asked for specific sleeve and back lengths.

    Next step was to decide on the leather, lining and other customization options (zipper; collar). I saw a nice jacket on Theodoros' Instagram profile which was made of brown 'bruciato' horsehide. As we all know capturing the true color of a brown jacket in a photo is very difficult, therefore Theodoros sent me a few samples:
    [​IMG]
    The darkbrown horsehide was nice and had lots of natural character, but it was thinner than what I was looking for. The unwashed 'bruciato' leather looked a bit 'flat' to my taste. The bruciato horsehide with the beeswax finish was exactly what I had in mind. Furthermore I wanted an off-white detachable shearling collar.

    In the beginning of february, after e-mailing Theodoros my leather and lining preferences, he told me it would take approximately 60 days for him to complete the jacket. Then COVID-19 happened and Theodoros had to close down his workshop and therefore I had to wait a little bit longer for my jacket to be completed.

    In the meanwhile, while waiting for my jacket to be completed, I started to doubt my choices: did I choose the right back length, would the color of the leather not be too light, shouldn't I have chosen a button close instead of the zipper close, etc ect. I guess that is just part of the process of ordering a custom leather jacket, hoping it will turn out the way you imagined it but not knowing for sure until you actually receive the jacket.

    Then, beginning of may, Theodoros let me know his workshop had reopened and it would take another 20-25 days to complete my jacket. Last Thursday, end of may, I finally received the jacket.

    Opening the box, I could immediately tell the jacket was even more beautiful than I imagined it to be. Beautiful leather, buttons, shearling and lining.
    [​IMG]
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    Trying on the jacket, it fits like a glove. Perfect in the chest, nice slim sleeves, and still roomy enough to wear it with a thick sweater. I was told the leather is between 1.1 and 1.3 mm thickness. I cant tell, but it is heavier than my Eastman Roadstar, but not as heavy as an Aero CXL FQHH. The leather is vegetable tanned and shows beautiful grain. I believe when ordering I asked for an off-white collar, the collar I eventually got is more beige than off-white. I'm not sure this was a deliberate choice of Theodoros, but in hindsight I'm glad he went for beige. I think the beige collar suits this jacket much better than an off-white collar would have done.

    I'm absolutely over the moon with my new jacket. Too bad I'll have to wait till the fall before I can actually wear it (the jacket is much too warm for now). Like I said its even more beautiful than I imagined it to be. Even though, if I had to name one thing I would change about this jacket, it would be the bottom width. It flares just a little bit and I would have liked the jacket even more if it were one and a half inches narrower at the bottom.

    Chances are good that my next jacket will also be a Thedi. In my opinion, his designs are unique. He's not just recreating vintage jackets from the past, he takes a classic design and gives it a modern contemporary twist, combining the best materials with the finest craftsmanship.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,082
    Some fit pics:
    Jcket open
    [​IMG]

    Back

    [​IMG]

    Jacket closed

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

  3. torfjord

    torfjord Practically Family

    Messages:
    902
    Absolutely beautiful jacket! I get what you mean by the flare though, I’ve seen that on other Thedi jackets as well. But maybe if you will use this as a winter jacket you will be happy with the little extra room to fit a sweater under when it’s colder?
     
    davyjones007 and Marc mndt like this.
  4. dubpynchon

    dubpynchon Practically Family

    Messages:
    798
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    Ireland
    I think the flare is cool, some of my Vansons have it, it might be to help the jacket fit when you're sitting on a bike.
     
    davyjones007 and Marc mndt like this.
  5. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

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    True. It's definitely a winter jacket so it will be worn with a sweater. I also think the flare makes the jacket a bit more comfortable while sitting down., driving my car. Anyway, for esthetic reasons I'd prefer it a bit more tapered.
     
    davyjones007 likes this.
  6. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,418
    Location:
    SoCal
    This is one of the coolest modern jackets!!!!
    Homerun @Marc mndt!
    I love the collar and your choices.
    The original vintage inspo jacket had a little flair too:
    912485AE-D82A-42AA-894E-98EE731FB303.jpeg
     
  7. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,046
    Location:
    Chicago
    Congrats. Looks super wearable. The name badge is a nice touch.
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  8. Robbie79

    Robbie79 One Too Many

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    1,087
    Very cool jacket and perfect fit!
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  9. Harris HTM

    Harris HTM One Too Many

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    Great jacket man!
    By the way - is this the old NDSM werf in Amsterdam? I used to work closeby!
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  10. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

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    Sharp eye, it is :)
     
    Harris HTM likes this.
  11. Harris HTM

    Harris HTM One Too Many

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    1,041
    Location:
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    Then you won't have the chance to enjoy your jacket soon, it's among the warmest springs here in the NL...
     
  12. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

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    1,082
    Which jacket is this? I thought Thedi might have had his inspiration from the Escape from New York Snake Plissken jacket.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2020
  13. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,418
    Location:
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    I found it in a RRL store in New York City...super cool, but SUPER expensive- no label.
    I’m pretty sure Snake’s film jacket was vintage.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2020
  14. nick123

    nick123 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,107
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    California
    WOW
     
  15. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

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    1,082
    Ah, I know the ralph lauren company buys true vintage items at auctions and recreates them for their RRL brand-name. Now and then they sell these true vintage pieces in their stores, at crazy prices :)
     
    davyjones007 and handymike like this.
  16. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,470
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    Wow, it really came out beautifully! Glad my review was of help :)
     
    Benny Holiday and Marc mndt like this.
  17. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,883
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    Chicago
    That jacket is absurdly cool and the fit is absolutely nailed to the ground!! Damn man. That is awesome
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  18. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

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    1,082
    One more, collar detached
    94BF9D0F-EC0D-46D6-94C3-6A5F2E9BAFFF.jpeg
     
  19. nick123

    nick123 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,107
    Location:
    California
    Best jacket of 2020 posted here to date. If the likes fail to reach the stratosphere, something's amiss.
     
    davyjones007 and Marc mndt like this.
  20. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Great looking jacket -- congrats!
     
    Marc mndt likes this.

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