TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,273
Gorgeous.. I've got a Manhattan something fun coming next year. If it looks half as good I'd be thrilled
-
The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
Field Leathers
- Thread starter MrProper
- Start date
marker2037
Practically Family
- Messages
- 834
- Location
- Curacao/NJ, USA
Here it is:
Thank you! I think you will be very pleased.
Jin431
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,912
- Location
- Bay Area CA
man I should have really went for brass hardware as it looks so much nicer with the black teacore! that fits you very nicely and the sleeve design looks right at home on the j24 imo
marker2037
Practically Family
- Messages
- 834
- Location
- Curacao/NJ, USA
I like how the brass brings a warm tone to black. Combined with the underlying teacore color and the warm tones make a whole lot of sense. I couldn't be happier with this combo and I think I'm a full time brass guy from now on.
Jin431
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,912
- Location
- Bay Area CA
agreed, also the brass should fade over time as the leather shows brown so both the hardware and leather will age. didn't think of it that way when I requested nickel hardware lol
Windflaps are only necessary on a motorcycle jacket.
His jackets aren't motorcycle jackets, thus they IMO don't need a windflap.
On foot you will never walk/run fast enough to get wind ingress through the zipper, even strong wind won't get through.
It's really only necessary at speed on a bike.
Nerd pattern question:
I notice that Gregs patterns all have a proportionally small front of the chest.
When i look at pics of my LW J-23 i see that the front panels have a small fold of extra material at the front of my armpits because of slightly too much material in the front pit to pit.
It creates a fold that some might find unsightly, but it adds mobility if trying to reach back with your arm.
The fold is more pronounced when the jacket is worn open.
Comparatively, Gregs pattern has no fold when the jacket is closed, the leather just lays flat on your chest.
This creates a horizontal "pull line" across the chest (above the green line) and gives the impression the jacket is quite tight and might be more restrictive. You only see a very slight amount of fold when the jacket is worn open.
But, Greg also uses armholes that come into the chest much more, whcih is i think what creates the slight shoulder peak/overhang that is characteristic of his jackets.
As someone who has worn both a LW J-24 (i think you used to haev one didn't you?) and a FL J-24, how do you think that change in the pattern affect comfort and mobility?
Is it just a visual difference or is there a noticeable difference in wear?
It's interresting how the "same" jacket can look so different, i wonder if they feel different...
marker2037
Practically Family
- Messages
- 834
- Location
- Curacao/NJ, USA
Nerd pattern question:
I notice that Gregs patterns all have a proportionally small front of the chest.
When i look at pics of my LW J-23 i see that the front panels have a small fold of extra material at the front of my armpits because of slightly too much material in the front pit to pit.
It creates a fold that some might find unsightly, but it adds mobility if trying to reach back with your arm.
The fold is more pronounced when the jacket is worn open.
Comparatively, Gregs pattern has no fold when the jacket is closed, the leather just lays flat on your chest.
This creates a horizontal "pull line" across the chest (above the green line) and gives the impression the jacket is quite tight and might be more restrictive. You only see a very slight amount of fold when the jacket is worn open.
But, Greg also uses armholes that come into the chest much more, whcih is i think what creates the slight shoulder peak/overhang that is characteristic of his jackets.
As someone who has worn both a LW J-24 (i think you used to haev one didn't you?) and a FL J-24, how do you think that change in the pattern affect comfort and mobility?
Is it just a visual difference or is there a noticeable difference in wear?
It's interresting how the "same" jacket can look so different, i wonder if they feel different...
Good observation. You're right that Greg's jackets seem to have a narrower front panel compared to some other jackets of the same style, with the armholes "cutting in" to the front chest. I never owned or wore a LW J-24 though, so I can't compare the two. However, I think putting my arms more relaxed by my side shows that it's not really as tight as it seems in my other pics where I was putting tension on the front with the way I was posing.
It is clearly still smaller than your LW though.
What I can say is that if you were riding in this jacket, the smaller chest panel would actually be a benefit as there would be less material to crease and fold up with your arms forward on the handlebars. The downside of course is when you pull your arms back, but that's a position you would rarely be in.
I don't think Greg's intention was riding of course, as I think it more relates to having less material drape, especially when the jacket is worn open, as you point out well.
Sorry, i got you mixed up with @Americanaaa Mark, you guys look like brothers! My bad.
I just noticed you added the Leathertogs dots to the wrists, that's a really nice touch, really nice design overall..
It's the same with the Route 66.
The armholes extend further into the chest. In addition, the strongly forward-oriented sleeve rotation pulls everything taut when the arms hang down normally.
Perhaps the pattern also works better with narrower shoulders.
The armholes extend further into the chest. In addition, the strongly forward-oriented sleeve rotation pulls everything taut when the arms hang down normally.
Perhaps the pattern also works better with narrower shoulders.
Bfd70
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,049
- Location
- Traverse city
Hot Dpocket action. I haven’t seen that @Americanaaa Mark photo. Too sweet!
Cornelius
Practically Family
- Messages
- 715
- Location
- Great Lakes
Thanks for this advice @Canuck Panda, @Jin431, & @TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead. Forgot to follow up here and note that I got in under the wire thanks to you all & have order number in hand. Or inbox. Now to just forget about all this until December 2022 or so when the fit jacket process will likely begin.
hondurasdave47
Practically Family
- Messages
- 627
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
Incoming! Greg said that the jacket will go out on Monday!
Attachments
-
252881771_1173203163204703_1848173548038493660_n.jpg -
252105594_591445345396162_8545230304970909429_n.jpg -
252613671_441980680614860_3172088909804666993_n.jpg -
253477258_3135540610103232_1820803145949495725_n.jpg -
252172044_290314386290100_8959662765943226917_n.jpg -
253919477_600813261350757_2590215523222196651_n.jpg -
253084968_259504656134917_2501483050104207424_n.jpg -
252533561_677342213184837_1162622485683886773_n.jpg -
252579941_1599656363727961_2635364576691001449_n.jpg -
253164418_212619931006212_5762044157708220399_n.jpg
Jin431
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,912
- Location
- Bay Area CA
so dang clean! wow that black pony leather looks fantastic! Camo?! sweet! Well played good sir.
Canuck Panda
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,189
@Carlos840
You're quite accurate with FL pattern fit vs LW. They are quite different.
FL Manhattan size 42 measurements: This is stock size 42 I believe
Shoulder 18", measured from the back
P2P 22"
Hem 19.5"
Back Length 25.5"
Sleeves 26"
LW J24 tag size 46 measurements: I bought this used so I am not sure about stock sizing
Shoulder 20", measured from the back
P2P 23"
Hem 20"
Back Length 25"
Sleeves 26"
These are my body measurements: Measured the Langlitz way, which is same as the Lewis way just more measuring points.
For me, the FL feels like it's half size too small and the LW feels like it's half size too big. But both are wearable. FL is 11 stitches per inch, LW is 9. But to be fair, LW leather is at least 50% or more thicker than Greg's Shinki. So while FL has higher stitch count, LW has the highest stitch count I've seen in thick leather.
If I were to do this all over again, I would go up a size, add side laces, add diamond quilting. Greg's high stitch count would make diamond quilting would look awesome. Also I would ask for a belt made from Shinki horse butt strips, and maybe the D pocket made from Shinki Shell. It's a bit much I know, but that's how I envisioned a true premium jacket.
You're quite accurate with FL pattern fit vs LW. They are quite different.
FL Manhattan size 42 measurements: This is stock size 42 I believe
Shoulder 18", measured from the back
P2P 22"
Hem 19.5"
Back Length 25.5"
Sleeves 26"
LW J24 tag size 46 measurements: I bought this used so I am not sure about stock sizing
Shoulder 20", measured from the back
P2P 23"
Hem 20"
Back Length 25"
Sleeves 26"
These are my body measurements: Measured the Langlitz way, which is same as the Lewis way just more measuring points.
For me, the FL feels like it's half size too small and the LW feels like it's half size too big. But both are wearable. FL is 11 stitches per inch, LW is 9. But to be fair, LW leather is at least 50% or more thicker than Greg's Shinki. So while FL has higher stitch count, LW has the highest stitch count I've seen in thick leather.
If I were to do this all over again, I would go up a size, add side laces, add diamond quilting. Greg's high stitch count would make diamond quilting would look awesome. Also I would ask for a belt made from Shinki horse butt strips, and maybe the D pocket made from Shinki Shell. It's a bit much I know, but that's how I envisioned a true premium jacket.
Jin431
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,912
- Location
- Bay Area CA
I've had this brown full aniline cafe racer for a year now, the Leather seems to have darkened a shade and only had minimal stretching in the chest. It's not good in the wet, it warped the hand warmer and lower third of the main zip tape. Should have sized up and made the sleeves longer but I feel like I ain't moving this jacket on. Hope Greg offers this again in the future.
I think the jacket is great. One of your jackets that I like the best on you (although the others are of course also great)
TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,273
I know it's what we do around - OBSESS - LOL. But that jacket is awesome for 99.9998% of the people out there. As a racer, you can get away with a tighter fit so long as you're on the slim side. A half size bigger wouldn't hurt, but it's also not end of the world. But I know the feeling, when multiple jackets are fighting for wear time, any little excuse is an excuse not to wear in favor of something else. A handful of months back I just developed mental courage and got over the fact that every line doesn't need to lay perfect, etc. etc. and then I started trimming the overall count to a number where I felt each jacket would get at least a dozen wears each year. So versatility, color schema against my other clothes, etc. became bigger factors than I've got a line running along my chest or whatever. Maybe it's the overall mentality, the decluttering, or the fact my jackets have gotten more wears, but I just find them all so much better.
Canuck Panda
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,189
There were only two jackets made in this leather. Both Racers, both excellent jackets! I also wished Greg would offer this mid brown Shinki again too.
Similar threads
