Buco JH-1

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Carlos840, Sep 2, 2018.

  1. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    After years avoiding belted leather jackets i recently discovered i was actually a big fan of them, one thing led to another and here are two "new to me" jackets that are not seen very often around here. Both reached me pretty much unworn, it's almost like no one actually wears the nice jackets they buy!

    To start with, here is a Diamond Dave one, this is a copy of a late 30s Buco pattern, i don't think it would have originally been called a JH-1, but it was clearly what it evolved into. Unfortunately this isn't really a identical copy, it lacks the underarm gussets it should have, it has the wrong label, extra chest and handwarmer pockets, and the D pocket isn't quite right, but it still looks pretty cool.

    The jacket is a classic combination of DD "Good, bad and ugly".
    The leather is as usual the best part, dark russet shinki, great feel, great grain, molds to you in no time, nothing bad to report.
    Construction is a mixed bag, general stitching is good, the top stitching is nice and even, although a bit wavy in places. Other things are IMO very poor. The belt loops for example are pretty incredibly bad, they are cut so rough you have to wonder if it was done that poorly on purpose to prove a point. The D pocket is also pretty wonky, rather than having a smooth curved edge, it is a succession of diagonal lines forming a curve.
    Another couple classic DD moves that reappear on this jacket are the uneven zipper flaps on the handwarmer pocket and the use of zippers with white tape that look like they were painted brown with a Sharpie.
    Not great...

    The pattern is also IMO very weird. For the chest size it has very wide pointy shoulders, skinny restrictive arms and massive flare out as it goes down. Even though this is slightly too large for me (every single measurement i received from the seller was off by at least one inche!) it is extremely restrictive.

    It is basically the same as my first DD jacket, it looks good from afar, but don't inspect it from too close or you will find lots of issues with it and it isn't nice to wear...

    Pictures:

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    Belt loop closeup, admire the precision of that cut!

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    Fit pics:

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    It is pretty baggy at the waist, but with the belt i think it kinda looks ok.


    Now, on the other end of the spectrum, here is a Real McCoy Buco JH-1.
    This is the classic 1947 Buco JH-1, and this is everything you think it should be.
    The leather is also Shinki, but it has a very different feel and look to it.
    It has a very shiny top coat, and a super wrinkly/grainy finish, unlike any other Shinki i have seen before. It also has a very different smell, almost like pine sap, i really like it.

    Construction is perfect, not a single bad thing to say. The stitching is laser straight, super consistent, this is the only other jacket i own that can compete with my Freewheelers LaBrea.

    Although it is clearly smaller than the DD, this one actually feels much better.
    It doesn't pull across the biceps and the back when i reach forward, even though the armpits are tighter they are less restrictive because of the underarm gussets. it also doesn't have such a pronounced flair at the bottom. It is still a pretty boxy jacket, but not as much as the DD.
    I also think i like the shorter body better. Which is weird considering i would have called that jacket too short a year ago! How things change...

    Pics:

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    And fit pics:

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    Overall, i like both.
    I wish the DD had better attention to detail and was smaller in the waist, and i wish the RMC was slightly bigger in the shoulders, but for the moment i am keeping both.
    I can't really layer much underneath the RMC, so having the larger DD might be useful sometimes. I can easily fit a thick fleece or hoodie underneath, which i can't do with the RMC (it only fits a thin jumper).
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2018
  2. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Nice additions Carlos!
     
    Carlos840 likes this.
  3. Kuro

    Kuro A-List Customer

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    So... If I would like that same RMC Buco JH-1, what do I look for?

    Is it still in production with that lining? Is there a jacket code for it? How is it sized so I know how to find one that fits?

    Or... I call first refusal or dibbs or whatever if you EVER decide to part ways with it?

    Wow, that jacket looks smart.
     
  4. Kuro

    Kuro A-List Customer

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    Carlos840 likes this.
  5. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Thanks, they are still being made by RMC, you should find one easily, just google Buco JH-01
    If you want the measurements you can check out this thread where i keep all measurements:

    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/page-3
     
  6. Kuro

    Kuro A-List Customer

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  7. marmalademan

    marmalademan Banned

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    That first review has made me chuckle. Seems to me you and Dave sorta resemble an old married couple; you can still put up with each other but there's plenty of resentment and familiarity has indeed bred contempt! If he ever discusses customers with other makers I would imagine you are referenced with similar affection lol
     
    Monitor likes this.
  8. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I own two DD jackets, one was made in 2015, the second in 2017, both show the same poor attention to detail and "good enough" attitude. At this point i am pretty sure this is a standard and not an exception...
    Had this second jacket been a step above the first one i would have been the first to mention it and praise the better craftsmanship!
    I'm not one to try to create trouble, but i say things as i see them. I have no interest in winning the "customer of the year" award. And i would never order a new jacket at full price from him again, which i have said in the past.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2018
  9. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Do you think the jacket was this way when it left Dave's hands, or did this occur after the buyer took delivery? If the jacket was this way when it left Dave's hands, that is entirely unacceptable.

    eazLjng.jpg
     
    Carlos840 and Monitor like this.
  10. Milesdeathescape

    Milesdeathescape One of the Regulars

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    Here’s my new 2018 Mulholland [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I am 100% sure it was done by Dave, the pictures he took and posted on his Facebook page before shipping the jacket confirm it. Like i said, "good enough" is the DD way...
     
  12. marmalademan

    marmalademan Banned

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    Relax Carlos. I fully understand your position and I was in no way bring critical. Just thought it was a funny write up

    I remember the J100 too. I take you at your word
     
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  13. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Oh i didn't think you were being critical, i was just explaining my point so people don't come out of this thinking i have a personal grudge against DD.
     
  14. marmalademan

    marmalademan Banned

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    Then for those who may not be up with all of the history that is absolutely fair enough.

    @Readers, Carlos tells it how it is and is neither a fan boy nor an emotional buyer
     
  15. Monitor

    Monitor

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    Lol! Right, I didn't think we'd ever see anything DD reviewed by you! :D

    Overall, I like the DD jacket. Don't think it fits nearly as good as the RMC but it is a very nice jacket in itself. Very nice leather, hardware... But some of those errors, though... Man, that's borderline damage. I mean, the stitching in general looks nice but that cut on the belt loop would have me extremely upset if it was my jacket. I don't see how he/they figured that jacket's good enough to leave for the customer in such a condition. That's a factory third, not a second.

    Almost looks as if the belt loops were installed by someone else who's far less skilled at machining.

    The kidney panel appears to be uneven as well, longer at the bottom left corner but it could just be the angle of the photo.

    But I like it nonetheless.

    RMC is just perfect. Fits you better, equally nice hide except that in my opinion, black always works better for this style and it's got my favorite lining. Love the mixed hardware detail, too. Really awesome, straightforward cross zip!
     
    Benny Holiday and Carlos840 like this.
  16. Mich486

    Mich486 One Too Many

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    The RMC is just fabulous! My favourite cross zip they make. I also dig the dark brown version of it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  17. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I hadn't noticed but you are right, the kidney panel is actually 5mm longer on the left side! DD precision right there...
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2018
  18. JMax

    JMax My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    We got some serious eagle eyes round here. You guys should be shot into space and used as a collection platform/satellite by an intel outfit lol. Of course, when you guys point it out I quickly see exactly what you are talking about. Still a cool jacket, flaws and all.
     
  19. This is nothing new. Several FL members over the years have complained in a very similar way about some of DD's jackets. DD even cussed out the FL and dissatisfied FL members on the VLJ site a couple years ago after reading some posts here criticizing his work and also his belligerent attitude toward any critique.
    HD
     
    Sloan1874 likes this.
  20. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    [​IMG]
     

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