How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by red devil, Feb 12, 2017.

  1. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,737
  2. Rich22

    Rich22 A-List Customer

    Messages:
    428
    Location:
    G.B.
    That's interesting- thanks for the reply. It would be fascinating to know what they coated it with.
    I own some pigment inks for artistic purposes- unlike traditional dye based inks they are entirely water resistant. Once they are absorbed by paper they are not going anywhere unless you use a knife to scratch away the paper they've been absorbed by. The only dye based ink I have that is water resistant is cellulose reactive. If the 'pigments' applied to leather were like the pigment inks I'm familiar with, I can see no harm or drawback in staining leather with them. If anything, it seems a sensible thing for a tannery to try.
     
  3. Rich22

    Rich22 A-List Customer

    Messages:
    428
    Location:
    G.B.
    It looks very pretty, I must say. Is that sample yours? How does it react if you scratch it with a fingernail? Thanks.

    Edit: If a pigment 'ink' of sorts was applied to absorbent aniline leather it would be absorbed and stain the top layer, and would be there permanently. If it was applied to finished water resistant leather then it would likely sit on top, as it would when applied to glossy photo paper as opposed to absorbent copy paper. Perhaps this is akin to what is done to blackened-brown leather? The pigment 'ink' sits on top until it's rubbed off?
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2021
  4. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,737
    It's really hard to scratch, even if you use something hard and sharp (thanks to/due to the pigment top coat).

    I say due to because that also means it won't develop character as fast as non-pigment dyed leather.
     
    Rich22 likes this.
  5. Rich22

    Rich22 A-List Customer

    Messages:
    428
    Location:
    G.B.
    Ok, it seems more than a mere pigment ink has been applied in that case. Do you think the top coat contains any additional colouring? If it's a transparent layer I think 'top coat' is infinitely more appropriate than 'pigment'. By the way, I edited the post you replied to, to add some comments.
     
  6. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,737
    Semi-Aniline: Leather that is aniline dyed and coated with matching pigment and/or other topical finishes to even out the color and add protection. Also called aniline-plus or protected aniline.
     
    jonesy86 likes this.
  7. Rich22

    Rich22 A-List Customer

    Messages:
    428
    Location:
    G.B.
    It would be considered semi-aniline with just a synthetic sealer applied even without colouring, as it radically changes the characteristics of the leather.

    This little diagram I stumbled across is nice, and shows how despite being in its own category, oil pull/waxed/oiled leather would fall somewhere between aniline and semi aniline. I'll take care to ensure all future leather goods I buy fall squarely in this category.

    [​IMG]
    https://www.paulfordleatherproducts.co.nz/identifying-leather.html
     
  8. Monitor

    Monitor

    Messages:
    14,090
    Not all, of course but most is 'cause it's like I said earlier, leather that hasn't been dyed is exactly the color of your jacket, under the finish It's gray or very lightly blue-ish and not very nice to look at at all - but - It's perfect for bright top coat, such as white. Some would argue that that's the natural color of chrome-excelled tanning and they wouldn't be wrong but not all chrome tanned leather turns out that way as you can add any color to the CX solution.
    Vegetable tanned leather is more brown, due to the properties of the tanning solution which tends to be brown-ish but again, some dye is added to it as well as the color wouldn't be nearly as rich and nice as what people expect veg-tanned hide is.

    But all that is just one more thing that adds to the confusion; For instance, acrylic top coat vs. dyed surface. Clearly not the same thing, not by a long shot, but by just going with terms such as aniline or whatever, the differentiation gets blurred even further which, to me, is a much more substantial than whether a piece of hide's been covered with dye or soaked in it.

    Any leather that has any kind of color already has pigment applied to the surface by default and since all brown leather is dyed (to some extent), physical properties of leather that's surface dyed vs. the kind dyed all the way thru are negligible. Functionality wise, it's the same thing.

    However, heavy, leather with acrylic finish applied to it is completely different than the other sort. That's the kind of leather that's considerably more waterproof and indeed intended for riding. Like your Trojan.

    In short, dye don't make no top coat. Dyed surface is simply that - Dyed leather. Top coat or actual finish if you will, is another thing.
     
  9. Monitor

    Monitor

    Messages:
    14,090
    I didn't mean Dave himself but the info that's on the website doesn't really say very much about any of the leather they use that's of any particular use to the consumer. There's a lot written down but all that we can essentially learn is that all of their leathers is 1.2 to 1.3 mm, pigmented, waxy & that they smell like mimosa. And they're tanned in Japan. Or Italy. But that's okay. I believe that even that's going into excessive detail that isn't really necessary for any of us.

    Except then they go on about something they termed Full grain suede which couldn't possibly make any less sense!
    Sanded leather by definition has no grain! It's been sanded off. It's gone! That's the whole point of sanding. I don't know how Dave allowed for that to sit on his page for so long but it ultimately doesn't matter as the average consumer won't have a clue what any of it really means and they'll still get a top quality suede (as opposed to split hide or maybe even rough-out).
     
    Rich22 likes this.
  10. jonbuilder

    jonbuilder My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,020
    Location:
    Redwood City, CA
    Thank you for explaining monior. I now understand some of the various processes for preparing a hide o to be made into a jacket better. I do agree with you, a lot of us put too much emphasis on the preparation of the leather and would be better-served concentrationing of the jacket design and construction.
     
    El Marro likes this.
  11. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    I got this Bates CR for a decent price off fleabay. I was attracted by the good shape the jacket is in and the fact that the measurements looked spot on for me (we shall see about that). Can anyone tell me what decade the jacket is from? Looks 60-70s to me. @handymike?

    bates1.jpg

    bates2.jpg

    bates3.jpg

    bates4.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2021
    marker2037, jeo, Zoo and 11 others like this.
  12. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    9,154
    Location:
    SoCal
    The smaller shoulder gussets indicate an earlier date- probably mid sixties... before the teardrop zipper pulls, gold lining, and gloriously large collars. Great score!
     
    jonbuilder and Will Zach like this.
  13. Rich22

    Rich22 A-List Customer

    Messages:
    428
    Location:
    G.B.
    Will Zach likes this.
  14. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    ^^
    Thanks, hope it fits, you never know with these vintage things...:)
     
  15. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    9,154
    Location:
    SoCal
    I find the 40 to be slightly large for me (I’m really a 38), but comfortable. Mine has the larger action back, so it probably feels bigger than your incoming one. You know who to PM if the fit is off ;).
     
  16. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    ^^
    Absolutely. If the fit is off I will measure key measurements as accurately as I can and fire off a PM to you...:)
     
  17. Carlos840

    Carlos840 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,339
    Location:
    London
    I just received these pics from Stu, i am in awe, she is an absolute beauty!
    The hide is a custom batch of anthracite grey moose hide from Finland, 2.2mm thick. Unfortunately this hide is never going to be available as standard. I cannot wait to handle this beast and see it for real, she looks amazing!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda Practically Family

    Messages:
    660
    That's some very serious leather. Super thick super soft. This is the thickest I've seen for Moose. Or Elg as they are called over there in Europe. Very nice. Going to LW page to check it out now.
     
  19. Carlos840

    Carlos840 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,339
    Location:
    London
    There won't be anything to see on the LW website, since this is a custom project and he is never going to have this hide for sale he decided not to put the pictures on his website (at least that's what he told me a few weeks ago). No point advertising something you can't sell i guess.
     
    red devil and Canuck Panda like this.
  20. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,813
    Location:
    Chicago
    @Carlos840 just sell the rest of your awesome collection and be known as “that big guy in the badass moose jacket” from now on.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.