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topcoat alterations?

StanleyVanBuren

Registered User
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409
Location
Pacific Palisades, CA
Does it make sense to have a topcoat/overcoat tailored? I have this camel-hair one that I got from BR that I really like. According the them its a size small and it fits well in the shoulders, and reasonably well in the chest. But the rest of it feels pretty big.

Would it make sense to have it altered or is it supposed to fit big like this? Here is a photo with me wearing a few layers underneath and I think it still looks a little roomy:

IMG_8133.jpg
 

luvthatlulu

Suspended
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433
Location
Knoxville, TN
Good question...and a mystery that I myself have never figured out!

I've heard/read:

1. The size of the topcoat should be the same size as your jacket size. Example: 40R jacket = 40R topcoat

2. The size of the topcoat should be one even size larger than your jacket size. Example: 40R jacket = 42R topcoat

3. None of the above...wear what fits you best.

My own experience has been that 3. above works for me; but the strange thing is that, even when selecting a jacket and a topcoat from the very same manufacturer, I sometimes actually have to go down one size in the topcoat to get the fit I want. Right now, for example, a 44L jacket by Polo Ralph Lauren fits me well in the body and I have the sleeves shortened. However, a 42R PRL topcoat fits fine over the same jacket after the alterations. What's up with that?

P. S. - SVB, your topcoat looks fine to me.
 

Marty M.

Vendor
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1,195
Location
Minneapolis
The whole outfit looks good.

Stanley, nice looking overcoat. I do think that it's a little full on you. I would consider having the collar shorten and the sides brought in. Have you invested in a nice muffler (a 3' scarf)?
Marty Mathis
 

thunderw21

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,044
Location
Iowa
Would it be correct in saying that overcoats are made a bit larger to accommodate being worn over other clothing even if they are marked the same size that you wear?

To answer Stanley's original question, yes I think it makes perfect sense to have an overcoat tailored. Wearing a baggy and poorly fitting overcoat not only feels funny but it can ruin a great outfit. Your overcoat, Stanley, is nice looking but, like you said, could use a bit of tailoring in the areas that Marty outlined.
 

StanleyVanBuren

Registered User
Messages
409
Location
Pacific Palisades, CA
Marty M. said:
Stanley, nice looking overcoat. I do think that it's a little full on you. I would consider having the collar shorten and the sides brought in. Have you invested in a nice muffler (a 3' scarf)?
Marty Mathis

Collar shortened? I don't understand...
 

Vladimir Berkov

One Too Many
Messages
1,291
Location
Austin, TX
Theoretically, the marked size on an overcoat should be the normal suit size that you wear. Just as a suit coat is "oversized" to not fit to snug against the chest, an overcoat is oversized to fit over a suit.

The problem is that there is not exact uniformity among clothing manufacturers, so that you may wear a size "40" suit from one maker, but a size "42" overcoat from another maker whose sizing runs small, etc, etc.
 

luvthatlulu

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433
Location
Knoxville, TN
Vladimir Berkov said:
Theoretically, the marked size on an overcoat should be the normal suit size that you wear. Just as a suit coat is "oversized" to not fit to snug against the chest, an overcoat is oversized to fit over a suit.

The problem is that there is not exact uniformity among clothing manufacturers, so that you may wear a size "40" suit from one maker, but a size "42" overcoat from another maker whose sizing runs small, etc, etc.

Yes, all that I know...thanks. But why would a 44L PRL topcoat be so large as to wrap me up twice when the 44L suit jacket fits fine except for sleeve length? Why would I find it necessary to downsize the topcoat from the same manufacturer--that's what seems strange to me? (And PRL is one of several brands that I find this same phenomenon to exist in!)
 

luvthatlulu

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433
Location
Knoxville, TN
StanleyVanBuren said:
Collar shortened? I don't understand...

Marty will explain it better than I can, but he's referring to the collar appearing to stand away from your neck in the back (may just be the way you've thrown the coat on for the photo, though). If you let a tailor examine it as it is, he would know what to do--it's not a big deal and done quite frequently.
 

StanleyVanBuren

Registered User
Messages
409
Location
Pacific Palisades, CA
luvthatlulu said:
Marty will explain it better than I can, but he's referring to the collar appearing to stand away from your neck in the back (may just be the way you've thrown the coat on for the photo, though). If you let a tailor examine it as it is, he would know what to do--it's not a big deal and done quite frequently.


OK, I thought maybe that was what that was. I've noticed it too and it's not just this particular pose where that happens. If that's a simple fix, that'd be great.
 

Marty M.

Vendor
Messages
1,195
Location
Minneapolis
Fiving Stanley up.

StanleyVanBuren said:
OK, I thought maybe that was what that was. I've noticed it too and it's not just this particular pose where that happens. If that's a simple fix, that'd be great.

Stanley, luvthatlulu is right, it's an alteration done by a tailor that's experienced in collar work. The three main reasons that a collar needs to be shorten are: 1/The coat is cut over sized for the wearer. 2/ The wearer's head is forward pitched. 3/ The wearer has a slim (and typically, longer) neck for the cut of the coat. The cost of the alteration should be under $40.00
Good luck my friend.
Marty
 

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