Fit Check Thread for Jackets

[MrCC]

The Try On HB from Aero just landed, there was a bit of back and forth with the measurements of my new order and Chloe suggested sending a try on.
Now on paper, this should have been a little larger than the measurements I discussed, but as it turns up, if anything is a bit smaller...
it measures just over 22" pit to pit, 18.5" shoulders, 25" length, which is all JUST shy of my typical measurements...

The sleeves are definitely short at just over 25", when 26.5" is where I normally like them.
The back also is at least 1" short of where I'd like it to be.

Despite all that, with the exception of back and sleeves length, it feels pretty good on
Also my order is meant to be CXL SH, and this is HH, not that it would necessarilyt make any difference.

The movements are slightly coinstricted but then it's a heavy hide just out of the box...I have also tried it with a light sweater and couldn't feel much difference at all

The lining is cotton whereas my order would be Lochcarron...

I would be curious to hear what you folks think from what can be seeen in these photos, before sending in notes and revisions...

 

[DancingDecker]

Wife was out so I decided to play dress up and see y'alls opinions on the fit of some of my jackets. If I've done the images correctly, first is a the real mccoy J-24L, second is a Schott 618, third is an Aero type 3, the fourth is a flat head two-tone, fifth is a johnson leather brown CXL. Most of them I've actually picked up from here!

In terms of personal preference, the Aero is a tag snug when buttoned and the flat head is a tad loose but they're all very comfortable while riding and just wearing out and about.

 

[MrProper]

Also my order is meant to be CXL SH, and this is HH, not that it would necessarilyt make any difference.

At least with the jackets I had/have, it does make a difference. I find CXSH more comfortable to wear.

The overall impression of the jacket is somehow... not right. But okay, it's something to try out. The shoulders seem a bit narrow to me, the back is bulky, the sleeves are a matter of taste, overall not well proportioned.
At least to my taste.

 

[MrCC]

At least with the jackets I had/have, it does make a difference. I find CXSH more comfortable to wear.

The overall impression of the jacket is somehow... not right. But okay, it's something to try out. The shoulders seem a bit narrow to me, the back is bulky, the sleeves are a matter of taste, overall not well proportioned.
At least to my taste.

Thanks, I agree on the photos the fit looks somehow off, it actually feels better than it looks but definetly
not right...

 

[Eagledog]

The Try On HB from Aero just landed, there was a bit of back and forth with the measurements of my new order and Chloe suggested sending a try on.
Now on paper, this should have been a little larger than the measurements I discussed, but as it turns up, if anything is a bit smaller...
it measures just over 22" pit to pit, 18.5" shoulders, 25" length, which is all JUST shy of my typical measurements...

The sleeves are definitely short at just over 25", when 26.5" is where I normally like them.
The back also is at least 1" short of where I'd like it to be.

Despite all that, with the exception of back and sleeves length, it feels pretty good on
Also my order is meant to be CXL SH, and this is HH, not that it would necessarilyt make any difference.

The movements are slightly coinstricted but then it's a heavy hide just out of the box...I have also tried it with a light sweater and couldn't feel much difference at all

The lining is cotton whereas my order would be Lochcarron...

I would be curious to hear what you folks think from what can be seeen in these photos, before sending in notes and revisions...

From the back the leather is all puckered or bunched up below the collar/ neck hole area. Also from the back, the shoulders look like they puckered and up in the air, above where the actual shoulders on your body are. The waist belt looks like it is way too high on your back, and everything above the belt is a wide billowing mess. From the side the arm hole looks way too wide front to back. It also is bunched up and caved in along the back side of the sleeve in the shoulder armpit area. The sleeves could be longer. Longer sleeves with a wide cuff opening can be troublesome. You can end up with with them covering half your hand. That make getting stuff out of your pockets tricky. Zipper cuffs solve that problem since they cinch down to wrist size when zipped , leaving your hand free to do any necessary tasks. I'm not sure if any af this solves your problems/questions.
The length didn't look bad. But it has a whole bunch of wonky things going on everywhere. I can not think of a way to tweak a measurement here and there and get this to look good .

 

[MrCC]

From the back the leather is all puckered or bunched up below the collar/ neck hole area. Also from the back, the shoulders look like they puckered and up in the air, above where the actual shoulders on your body are. The waist belt looks like it is way too high on your back, and everything above the belt is a wide billowing mess. From the side the arm hole looks way too wide front to back. It also is bunched up and caved in along the back side of the sleeve in the shoulder armpit area. The sleeves could be longer. Longer sleeves with a wide cuff opening can be troublesome. You can end up with with them covering half your hand. That make getting stuff out of your pockets tricky. Zipper cuffs solve that problem since they cinch down to wrist size when zipped , leaving your hand free to do any necessary tasks. I'm not sure if any af this solves your problems/questions.
The length didn't look bad. But it has a whole bunch of wonky things going on everywhere. I can not think of a way to tweak a measurement here and there and get this to look good .

Thanks, I have actually resolved that they really need to go back to the drawing board entirely

 

[wski9]

Hi FL Members

Looking for advice on the fit of this sz42 Aero Premier Highwayman from Thurston I got early this year in CXL steerhide.

I feel like the fit looks pretty well. Trim but not overly tight looking. The jacket is comfortable most of the time. The challenge is that I feel restricted when doing certain movements - specifically reaching both arms straight out or up. This symptom has improved in 6 months of break in, but still noticeable.

My initial thought was the shoulders aren’t wide enough. But when I reach up or out the shoulder material tends to bunch up which I feel like might mean that’s not the issue. The real issue seems to be the seam along the yoke. This is where I feel like the jacket is restricting me when I reach out.

What do you think seeing these pictures? If you were buying another jacket, what change would you make to measurements?

Would an extra 1.5 in of shoulder make this better or worse? I’m considering a second hand sheene that’s similar in all other measurements but with wider shoulders.

How would this cut compare with that of a sheene?

 

[Carlos840]

I can't because I need armor pockets and this one doesnt have 'em. But also, you don't think it's too short? It's above my belt buckle. View attachment 747207

The length in the back is perfect.
This jacket is a riding jacket designed with a short front to avoid bunching up when leaning forward.
If you add 1.5" all around you are going to cover your belt in the front, but you are going to go bellow your rear pockets.
To me it's going to kill the proportions and make it worst as a riding jacket.

 

[F3Mag]

The length in the back is perfect.
This jacket is a riding jacket designed with a short front to avoid bunching up when leaning forward.
If you add 1.5" all around you are going to cover your belt in the front, but you are going to go bellow your rear pockets.
To me it's going to kill the proportions and make it worst as a riding jacket.

Agree. I’m going to add 1 inch to the front only.

 

[Eagledog]

Did you ever sit on a motorcycle with this jacket on and zipped? The jacket should easily be below your belt in the riding position. I've been riding for over 50 years on dozens of different style bikes and the only time the jacket beltline moved towards my helmet was on a friend's bike with extremely high and wide ape hangers. You should try it on the machine you will actually be riding and buy a jacket for that. If you are riding with your hands 6 inches above your head then you may have to add upwards of 3" to the jacket length. Have someone take your picture while sitting on the bike you will be riding most of the time. I think you will see the length is already ideal. You really don't want the bottom of the jacket curling up and dragging along the top of the tank.

 

[wski9]

@MrProper I know you own a couple of jackets from Aero including a Premier Highwayman because you helped me out with the initial purchase. Wondering if you have any wisdom to share on this thread?

 

[Leathergato]

I don’t know anything about the Sheen unfortunately but I just sold my size 40 Aero Premier Highwayman I bought earlier this year because it was too tight in the shoulders. And they even made the jacket with slightly wider shoulders for me. What you are describing and your movement pictures is pretty much my experience. It did feel to me also that it had something to do with the back yoke and upper sleeve shape on the jackets pattern. I have other jackets with similar shoulder size and PTP that I can move well in and don’t feel restricted. It is too bad because I paid a lot for it and I really loved the way it looked.

 

[MrProper]

@MrProper I know you own a couple of jackets from Aero including a Premier Highwayman because you helped me out with the initial purchase. Wondering if you have any wisdom to share on this thread?

I have two Premier Highwayman jackets and a J-100, which is based on the PHWM pattern (custom-made and not standard).

I am not a specialist, pattern maker, or tailor, so everything I write is just an assumption based on my observations. They may or may not be correct, but I am happy to put them up for discussion.

I think we can all agree that leather is normally not very elastic, and the thicker and stiffer it is, the less elastic it is. And when this leather is folded and sewn, the seam has even less elasticity than the rest.

Even though I don't walk like this in everyday life, I use the zombie walk as an example of mobility because it is often used here. And for some motorcycles, this could even be relevant in practice.

So I raise both arms and stretch them forward. What happens?
The sleeves of the jacket would like to rotate, but they can't. They also can't be easily deformed, at least not with heavy leather. So the upper arm presses against the sleeve and the jacket rotates on the shoulders. At the front, it goes up, at the back, it goes down, and the shoulders are raised. The back of the jacket presses even more against the back of the body and causes resistance. At the same time, the tension under the armpits increases and pulls the back of the jacket horizontally. If the back is then curved, the horizontal distance at the back is extended even further.

How can I compensate for this?
Well, for example, by using elastic material, or by adding shoulder gussets, an action back, or footballs under the armpits. Or I can use a lot of material for the back of the jacket, but this often compromises the look. And there may be other options.
If the above points are not addressed, I may have a mobility problem when raising my arms.

This is reinforced by a yoke (more so with straight styles than with western or curved styles) or tight sleeves (because they cannot slide up easily), strongly rounded armholes at the back (reducing the horizontal distance between the shoulder seams) in combination with narrow sleeves at the shoulder/biceps. Pointed shoulders also accentuate this more than rounded shoulders.

For a jacket with high mobility, my conclusion is therefore: No yoke or a curved or western yoke, high armholes, no pronounced curves at the armholes or sleeves at the shoulders wide enough (not the shoulders themselves), not too tight at shoulder blade height, no sleeves that are too tight so that they can slide up or down easily, rounded shoulders, no leather that is too thick and stiff.

Are my PHWMs perfect? No, I also notice some tension in my back when I do the zombie walk. But for me, the mobility is sufficient enough for everyday life that I don't feel restricted. I try to avoid the zombie walk, painting ceilings, or sports in these jackets.

I hope I've explained this in a way that's reasonably understandable and that it helps. Whether it's correct? I have no idea ;-)

Here, for example... 1 cm more width at the yoke on the roughout than on the other jacket. Plus, softer leather and a rounded yoke = much better mobility.
View attachment 1763482028434.jpeg

 

[yeongwoo]

Hey all! I received a muslin for a custom Type II jacket from Johnson Leather. Overall I like the fit, but the upper arms seem like they might be a touch baggy. Also, the shoulder seem is about half an inch past my shoulder joint. This would certainly help with layering, but this will be an unlined, light-weight jacket so my most common use case would be with a t-shirt or something light underneath, so the extra room in the shoulders is probably not strictly necessary. The chest fits well, but it's hard for me to judge whether it's too large or not. I've attached some pictures, I'd appreciate any advice y'all could give!

 

[Peter Mackin]

Miles too big.

 

[yeongwoo]

Any dimension which is particularly egregious? To me, the sleeve width feels like the biggest issue.

 

[DancingDecker]

I'm fairly new to jacket fits so take what I say with a grain of salt. The sleeve width lacking any tapering until the wrist is pretty bad. The shoulder width (to me) looks to be 2 - 3 inches too big. The side profile looks like the chest is as well.

 

[Peter Mackin]

Everything is off,sleeves also need 1/2inch -1 inch longer ,

 

[yeongwoo]

I'm fairly new to jacket fits so take what I say with a grain of salt. The sleeve width lacking any tapering until the wrist is pretty bad. The shoulder width (to me) looks to be 2 - 3 inches too big. The side profile looks like the chest is as well.

I see, I wasn't really sure what was causing the back to bulge like that, but the chest being too large makes sense. The lack of taper is also a good point, I'll ask if that can be done.

Everything is off,sleeves also need 1/2inch -1 inch longer ,

Makes sense, especially if the shoulders are taken in some.

Thanks for all the comments!

 

[barnabus]

Miles too big.

Absolutely this. Too big everywhere imo.

What hide are they making your type II out of? If I'm wearing a denim trucker I want it to fit snug, but that wouldn't apply if it's a heavy hide - you'll need some room to move. But that fit jacket gives you room for a friend too!