Field Leathers

Blackadder · Feb 13, 2024

This is an original Beck 666. Photo from another forum. I do not know if FW copied the pattern or not.

Here is another one on ebay.

58panheadfan · Feb 13, 2024

Damon141 said:
Fields Leather Review

I’ve been wanting to do this for a while but haven’t got around to it, but I’m leaving for a trip to visit my mother which has since retired become a world traveler, the US dollar stretches further in the countries she goes, this time its Meridia Mexico and no wearing jackets there.
Since I have not been out of the country since I was a kid, I even scored this passport holder made in the USA by an active Coast Guard member who made it for 1/3 of the cost as his Indonesian counterparts, awesome work.
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(Yes the review is for another cafe racer). Perfect pair, one brown and one black, but I will say if he makes that Beck 666 a permanent thing. I think I would be looking at 3 Racers lol

To the review, I waited for the end of my winter season because I thought it best that I actually wore the jacket for a while so that any problems or inconsistencies would show themselves BUT THEY HAVE NOT.

THE WAIT

Firstly yes, the wait was long, mine longer than yours might have been because this was a Completely new design for him and honestly I think it worked better because he’s clearly better at assembling these unique designs than a year or two ago.

Was it worth the wait? Absolutely, the fit is just perfect to me anyways, there are always different tastes so the fit may not be for everyone but I would not change a thing, well maybe I would have extended the zipper an inch or so but it really doesn’t matter and the design allows you to sit while zipped up.

Measurements and fit.

In the initial email correspondence we went over measurements and weight and desired fit. I had a well fit jacket which made it easier.
I told Sam and Greg that I wasn’t worried about it being a tight fitting jacket because I fluctuate between weights and then I’ve always planned to keep my custom jackets, who knows what the future holds but I do not plan to sell any, so long as it fits and it’s not holding me back from owning something else I want.
Also there’s a difference between having a one off custom from a tiny one or two employee brand than buying a made to measure from one of the larger but still small brands. Nostalgic i guess, knowing I spoke to the owner and maker about my jacket.

We based the measurements on my Kensington's fit, which was never the problem with that one, the only things we changed were the sleeves were too long (but the tight cuff design let me hide it)
We widened the shoulders an inch and took away 1/2” from each side of the middle abdomen which gives the jacket a V Taper zipped or unzipped.

These are not the best pictures, some even took at random times without a proper outfit but they might reflect the best fit because it’s more broken in

FINISHING
Stitching and finishing has always been Greg Field Leather’s strong suit, and this one does not disappoint, I’m not a maker/machinist but I really think he took his time with this one. It’s close to the edge on some areas but for the most part the stitch line is not on the edge of the seams like they used to be and honestly I think a little room from the edge looks natural.
SPI Is probably around 10 but have never counted, when I was new I used to worry about this but now I realize that stitches can look good longer or shorter. But I’m thinking this might be a Field Leather trademark so maybe it’s nice to have one like that.
I always thought that in 10-20 years you would never know the difference. But again I’m glad to see what is possible.

The Design

When I first ordered my jacket, I was actually going to order a Route 66 with horizontal chest pockets, One that looks like an old picture of an earlier J100 I found online.

But then during the wait I ordered the Kensington and asked Fields if I could change my design, I gave them pictures and information I had put together and they said they would take on the challenge. Later on while asking for information on another member’s jackets, he out of nowhere said that he talked to Greg and would send in the jackets for reference. What a good guy and I still am in awe that he offered to do. We are taking sending jackets from California to Scotland.

Clearly board members will know the jacket is based on another jacket which already exists, there could be some mixed feelings about that but in the end they seem to irregularly produce the leather jackets and I had no chance of fitting into their models anyways, besides that, there’s probably a dozen other brands cloning the Mulholland so I can’t feel too bad for this one off.

The details

The detailing on this jacket are what drew me to it, to some all cafe racers look the same but even without the color difference, the details on this jacket still amaze me, the back design with those French seams, also French seams along the sleeves, and the shoulders. Along with the double line stitching along the chest pockets and wrist cuffs. We actually decided to change the cuffs, since I already have an open zip cuff design, I told them to just use their normal procedure for cafe racers.

I also used a NOS Vintage Crown Main zipper in a #10 which suits the leather which is pretty thick compared to my other steerhide jacket. This one will take some time to break in whereas the steerhide had a broken in feeling from day one. I’m glad to have both to compare.

They thought Dark Brown thread would look good and I agreed. Then I sent in the Moleskin in a medium weight, durable but not heavy weight for my mild climate.

The interior angled pocket was a surprisingly good choice, it is so easy to use for a wallet or phone. The paneling was a nice touch with this material and in the sleeves I took their recommendation and used A contrasting material in both color and texture. It makes sliding your arms in a breeze. They recommended. Sleeve lining company which used to be one of their lining choices.

The LEATHER Shinki full aniline is great.

I’m open to all leathers, but for this one I think they chose right as it was suggested to me. It’s probably a good 3 ounce vs 2.5 ounces of my other which is chrome tanned and the full aniline Shinki being vegetable tanned, it’s definitely going to develop character whereas the chrome tanned leather I have has not changed much, but if have to look at pictures to confirm.
Arm rolls started with the 2nd week with daily use and I think they look great. I’ll keep them in check because I don’t want them riding up my arm to much so I’d say if needed you can smooth them out on a flat surface with just some pressure and your hands.

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I changed the pulls to these ones for variety and to make it a bit unique and then you can see that big Crown, it would have been perfect with one of his big paperclip repro Talons but I really liked that crown zipper style.

Thanks for taking the time to look and I thank everyone who helped me along the way with sizing, detail, movement and every aspect of help

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Nice, informative and interesting review, thank you! Enjoy breaking in your cool FL CR Jacket...

jeo · Feb 13, 2024

Marc mndt said:
Greg can do a curved zipper, here's what it looks like on my FL aviator.
View attachment 576524

I don't love how shoulder gussets look on Greg's jacket. I can't pinpoint exactly what' s wrong with them but they just look unnatural imo. Maybe a center box pleat world be a safer choice for added mobility.

Greg's Chicago vs Thedi vs Vintage
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This FL with back gussets looks good though but I think this is his old pattern which comes with other issues.
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For me there is a clash between the V shape body/jacket shape and the straight line down of the gusset.

On your Bon Marche the gusset line follows the V shape back/body beautifully. No clash.

Damon141 · Feb 18, 2024

Aloysius said:
I really like this, which is saying a lot because I tend to find cafe racers the most boring design. (Even my own well-fitting one bores me.)

What's the other, chrome-tanned jacket you're referring to?

Thank you, I didn’t even mean to order two cafe racers believe it or not. After ordering from Fields, Dave Himel called me on my cell months after I inquired about their products, not surprisingly because small jacket manufacturers are notorious for their late communication. So since Greg was quoting such a long wait, I think I was just convinced by Dave to order, brash as he is, he knows his jackets. And I figured having a Brown and Black one would not be too much of the same.

Then I did my best to pick a racer pattern different enough to justify two with no collection of jackets, and with that’s back panel, inverted chest zippers and the 2 button collar, it’s about as different from my first one as I could find. My back up was a classic Bates style Racer with the split back.

Oh, and the Kensington I have is chrome Tanned, hecdaid chrome tanned then vegetable re tanned. It’s a really soft leather. No break in.

Whereas the field’s even stood up a bit on its own.

JMax said:
Very cool jacket and great write-up.

Enjoy Mexico! I’d be careful on those roads between Merida and Cancun & Playa del Carmen, especially the interior roads and at night.

Thank you, she loves Merida, always bragging how cheap everything is. These are Pesos, not dollars. I can’t believe how cheap the seafood is, here in Florida you would think that we would have decent prices but grouper or native fish is upwards of $30 a pound or more.

I’m trying to decide whether to rent a car. I think it depends on how long I stay, it’s open ended for now.

She says it’s completely safe. I think differently. Anywhere can be dangerous if you run into the wrong people and Mexico and even its police are known for corruption. I had a friend from. Mexico and he said when he lived in Texas, he used to drive to his family and he was used to the police shaking him down, sure was bringing TV’s, stereos and other items that were harder to get back in the times he lived there.

Marc mndt said:
Awesome jacket, much nicer than the original FW Speedmaster with its weird wide shoulder - narrow chest pattern.

Tbh I was somewhat surprised that Greg was able to deliver a CR that fits better than you Himel Kensington, which despite its horrible construction quality does have a perfect fit (except for the sleeves which are too long).

I really got lucky, I knew I wanted the shoulders a bit wider for movement and the midsection trimmer to have more of a taper when unzipped, Sam instantly saw the sleeves and said that they should be shorter and trimmed down around the elbows area.

I was scared about the fit, I think everyone who goes made to measure knows the feeling. I really appreciate the small details, I was worried it would not capture the overall look (when it fits that is) so far coastal file here has the only original that fits perfectly

Greg surprised me with the well executed collar, even that little Leather piece he put inside the lower back, I didn’t even ask him for the slant inside pocket, just asked for a suit type and it really makes a difference if you like to carry a phone or wallet there.

Marc mndt said:
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This is one of the few that look ok but the loose fit is not to everyone’s taste

Marc mndt said:
So you're saying this weird FW fit is intentional because the 60s Beck 666 had such a pattern?

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This one seems like it would have been a keeper of the chest was wider, armpits not so high, and upper sleeves in line with your New Amsterdam but I think you long ago left the realm of racers except the one vintage HD.

Will Zach · Feb 18, 2024

Damon141 said:
Thank you, I didn’t even mean to order two cafe racers believe it or not. After ordering from Fields, Dave Himel called me on my cell months after I inquired about their products, not surprisingly because small jacket manufacturers are notorious for their late communication. So since Greg was quoting such a long wait, I think I was just convinced by Dave to order, brash as he is, he knows his jackets. And I figured having a Brown and Black one would not be too much of the same.

Then I did my best to pick a racer pattern different enough to justify two with no collection of jackets, and with that’s back panel, inverted chest zippers and the 2 button collar, it’s about as different from my first one as I could find. My back up was a classic Bates style Racer with the split back.

Oh, and the Kensington I have is chrome Tanned, hecdaid chrome tanned then vegetable re tanned. It’s a really soft leather. No break in.

Whereas the field’s even stood up a bit on its own.
View attachment 591680

Thank you, she loves Merida, always bragging how cheap everything is. These are Pesos, not dollars. I can’t believe how cheap the seafood is, here in Florida you would think that we would have decent prices but grouper or native fish is upwards of $30 a pound or more.

View attachment 591685
I’m trying to decide whether to rent a car. I think it depends on how long I stay, it’s open ended for now.

She says it’s completely safe. I think differently. Anywhere can be dangerous if you run into the wrong people and Mexico and even its police are known for corruption. I had a friend from. Mexico and he said when he lived in Texas, he used to drive to his family and he was used to the police shaking him down, sure was bringing TV’s, stereos and other items that were harder to get back in the times he lived there.

I really got lucky, I knew I wanted the shoulders a bit wider for movement and the midsection trimmer to have more of a taper when unzipped, Sam instantly saw the sleeves and said that they should be shorter and trimmed down around the elbows area.

I was scared about the fit, I think everyone who goes made to measure knows the feeling. I really appreciate the small details, I was worried it would not capture the overall look (when it fits that is) so far coastal file here has the only original that fits perfectly

Greg surprised me with the well executed collar, even that little Leather piece he put inside the lower back, I didn’t even ask him for the slant inside pocket, just asked for a suit type and it really makes a difference if you like to carry a phone or wallet there.

This is one of the few that look ok but the loose fit is not to everyone’s taste
View attachment 591681

This one seems like it would have been a keeper of the chest was wider, armpits not so high, and upper sleeves in line with your New Amsterdam but I think you long ago left the realm of racers except the one vintage HD.

Prices of fish/seafood in MX not only in pesos (obviously), but also per kg... wow.

mvilla · Feb 29, 2024

My mock jacket is finally here!! I'll post photos later.
Now I just don't know which leather to take. I'm going with black, and they sent me swatches for teacore, full Aniline and Aniline. I suppose the latter is the pony? I'm tempted to go for that one, as it feels soo soft... I want one that is easy to wear. I like the idea of how the teacore ages, so I am still strongly considering that one...

mvilla · Feb 29, 2024

Here are a few fit pics. Sorry for the shitty light. There are photos with my trusty hoodie, which I will most likely wear to layer and is probably the thickest piece of garment I'd use to do so (I also usually wear a wool jumper, but I reckon is not as thick as this hoodie). Also zipped and unzipped.

I think the shoulders are too broad, can reduce 1in (maybe more?). I feel like there is too much material around the gut as well, which is kinda giving me a dad body lol On the back photos it is possible to see how much extra material is bulging. Maybe I could take 0.5in from the sleeves as well. I think I can also reduce a little the hem opening. Also, the sleeves are bulging quite a bit around the upper arm, so I think I'll have to do the "Mark's rotation"?

What are your opinions on this?

Marc mndt · Feb 29, 2024

mvilla said:
Also, the sleeves are bulging quite a bit around the upper arm, so I think I'll have to do the "Mark's rotation"?

What are your opinions on this?

Sleeve pitch looks good to me, remember they have overhauled their patterns. Mine was the old pattern.

It's the back gussets that you pointed out. Don't know how to assess those on a cotton mockup though. On a leather jackets those are kept in place using elastic bands.

mvilla · Feb 29, 2024

Marc mndt said:
Sleeve pitch looks good to me, remember they have overhauled their patterns. Mine was the old pattern.

It's the back gussets that you pointed out. Don't know how to assess those on a cotton mockup though. On a leather jackets those are kept in place using elastic bands.

It actually also has the elastic band

I'd be very interested on hearing your opinion on the rest of the fit, though... You seen to nail every single custom you make haha

Marc mndt · Feb 29, 2024

mvilla said:
It actually also has the elastic band

Wow, that's fancy. They really upped their fit jacket game.

mvilla said:
I'd be very interested on hearing your opinion on the rest of the fit, though... You seen to nail every single custom you make haha

I think if you'll lose some shoulder width you'll also lose some of the gusset bulkiness.

For me the way to assess fit is by simply putting the jacket on and feel how it fits, I don't need to look into a mirror to know whether or not a jacket fits properly. So yes of course I could share my thoughts but in the end what's import is how it feels on you, which is something only you can assess.

ton312 · Feb 29, 2024

mvilla said:
Here are a few fit pics. Sorry for the shitty light. There are photos with my trusty hoodie, which I will most likely wear to layer and is probably the thickest piece of garment I'd use to do so (I also usually wear a wool jumper, but I reckon is not as thick as this hoodie). Also zipped and unzipped.

I think the shoulders are too broad, can reduce 1in (maybe more?). I feel like there is too much material around the gut as well, which is kinda giving me a dad body lol On the back photos it is possible to see how much extra material is bulging. Maybe I could take 0.5in from the sleeves as well. I think I can also reduce a little the hem opening. Also, the sleeves are bulging quite a bit around the upper arm, so I think I'll have to do the "Mark's rotation"?

What are your opinions on this?

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I’d actually be perfectly content with the corduroy mock up. Actually, I’d prefer it. I guess I’m a cheap date….

trainspotter · Mar 1, 2024

mvilla said:
My mock jacket is finally here!! I'll post photos later.
Now I just don't know which leather to take. I'm going with black, and they sent me swatches for teacore, full Aniline and Aniline. I suppose the latter is the pony? I'm tempted to go for that one, as it feels soo soft... I want one that is easy to wear. I like the idea of how the teacore ages, so I am still strongly considering that one...

I have the full aniline and 2 jackets in his teacore, and the teacore shinki is by far my favorite leather. Even better than my original love - mid weight CXL. I am not sure how the teacore will stand the test of elements though - I hardly expose my jacket to water. The teacore has been great for riding though

It has perfect balance of weight, heft and character. The aniline is significantly heavier, but as pliable. The teacore is just the right combination of matt & sheen, while the aniline is quite shiny even after 100+ hours of wear

Hope this helps

mvilla · Mar 2, 2024

Anyone here has experience with this Shinki aniline? Sam says it is similar to the full aniline, but with oil finish

mvilla · Mar 9, 2024

Hey, guys
I'd like to gather some opinions
I have 2 crown zips, one of which I'll use on my jacket

The left one is NOS, and I dyed it black, the right one I got from an old jacket.

I'll be using these on the sleeves, thus the tracks and fabric colour is matching the NOS one, however, the slider of the old one is much nicer, being spring loaded and all, but the tracks and fabric colour will differ.

I'm trying to decide with which one I should go with. I'll be shipping the zips to Field on Monday, so have to decide until tomorrow...

I could also do something like this

But it kinda feel off...

What you guys think?

Thanks!

jeo · Mar 10, 2024

Cross post with more pics of my FL after getting caught in rain, soaked and wore it till dry.

Aloysius · Mar 10, 2024

mvilla said:
Anyone here has experience with this Shinki aniline? Sam says it is similar to the full aniline, but with oil finish

View attachment 596055

I would discount the tea core altogether. It’s a good leather but the aniline alternatives are a substantial upgrade. Oil finish seems like a bonus to me, so that’s where I’d land.

BigPond · Mar 11, 2024

Marc mndt said:
The Dutch map was used as a reference with Amsterdam being the center.

Breuckelen was renamed to Brooklyn by the English.
Haarlem - Harlem
Vlissingen - Flushing

I’ve wondered where flushing came from, thanks Marc

amvoith · Mar 11, 2024

Aloysius said:
I would discount the tea core altogether. It’s a good leather but the aniline alternatives are a substantial upgrade. Oil finish seems like a bonus to me, so that’s where I’d land.

Curious as to what makes them an upgrade? Thanks

Aloysius · Mar 11, 2024

amvoith said:
Curious as to what makes them an upgrade? Thanks

They have a really beautiful feel in the hand and catch the eye in a way very few black leathers do.

The tea core while nice is very similar to other leathers, such as Aero's jerky horse. Additionally it is pretty much the most common Japanese horsehide you'll find in readymade Japanese jackets, so it's not hard to find.

The aniline hides are comparatively rare (but I wouldn't say to get an expensive product just because of rarity; I really do feel they have a lot going for them.)

mvilla · Mar 11, 2024

While I do agree they feel superb in hand - trust me, I walked around the whole city for 2 days holding these swatches, testing how they feel and the way they look under different light - I ended up going with teacore. The decision was more based on usability than on just looks, though. I intend to wear this jacket as often as possible and, being in UK, that means under pissing condition pretty often. I tested the water resistance of all three of them and, while the teacore one presents a fairly decent resistance to water, the other two absorbs it as quickly as a cotton fabric. Hence my decision.

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