Ask a question, get an answer

[RJR]

I really appreciate your advice about the hat stretching. It is a 1983 Christy's Lincona fedora that I'm very attached to and it would break my heart if I messed it up stretching it. I'm going to try to find a decent hatter in Canada (Henri Henri in Montreal is a good hat shop but their hat care workers are worthless, I've had bad experiences sending them hats for repair and shaping in the past).

Can some of you with recent experience tell me what price I'm looking at to get my hat professionally stretched? And does a stretch job include anything else, like re-blocking, re-shaping the crown and cleaning or would those all be extra? Should I give my hat a naptha bath prior to sending it in?

Any number of Loungers can handle your job.Certainly Mike @ NW Hats and in closer proximity,Scott Dalsbo (Bond) in Milwaukee.

 

[johnnycanuck]

I was just over checking out www.hornskovkobenhavn.com and thought the match in the hat band was kind of cool. Question is, would the chemicals in a match affect the felt over time? And the follow up question, anybody put anything cool in their hat bands to make them distinguished?
Johnny

 

[Frunobulax]

with a 4 year old and a 1 year old running around you know where my mind is

Ha. I had not considered that!


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[belfastboy]

I really appreciate your advice about the hat stretching. It is a 1983 Christy's Lincona fedora that I'm very attached to and it would break my heart if I messed it up stretching it. I'm going to try to find a decent hatter in Canada (Henri Henri in Montreal is a good hat shop but their hat care workers are worthless, I've had bad experiences sending them hats for repair and shaping in the past).

Can some of you with recent experience tell me what price I'm looking at to get my hat professionally stretched? And does a stretch job include anything else, like re-blocking, re-shaping the crown and cleaning or would those all be extra? Should I give my hat a naptha bath prior to sending it in?

Scott (Bond) can be contacted through his Etsy site....FineVintageFedoras. I have purchased many restorations from him and he does great work. Ask him for a quote. I can report that there are no good hat shops here in Vancouver. Not sure about Toronto. Scott is in Wisconsin and there is Brass Rooster in Milwaukee. We have so many great hatters here in the Pac NorthWest of the US we are spoilt. I cross the border and mail/pick up US items in a border town. US postage is about 1/2 that of Canada and about 3 days across the country. But I guess Lake Placid is your closest border crossing and not that close.

 

[AbridgedPause]

Scott (Bond) can be contacted through his Etsy site....FineVintageFedoras. I have purchased many restorations from him and he does great work. Ask him for a quote. I can report that there are no good hat shops here in Vancouver. Not sure about Toronto. Scott is in Wisconsin and there is Brass Rooster in Milwaukee. We have so many great hatters here in the Pac NorthWest of the US we are spoilt. I cross the border and mail/pick up US items in a border town. US postage is about 1/2 that of Canada and about 3 days across the country. But I guess Lake Placid is your closest border crossing and not that close.

Thanks for your reply belfastboy! I spoke with The Hatter in Toronto and they didn't seem very knowledged on fixing up old hats. The guy on the phone didn't even know half of the terms I was using. As for Montreal, Henri Henri is the oldest surviving hat shop, since 1932, but they botched up some of my old hats before and I'm never going to them again for that. They might be alright for new hats but restoration is not their specialty.

 

[John the Swede]

Considering a first ebay purchase...anyone have tips? How to clean it? Anyone a little bothered by not knowing who's worn the hat before or where it's been?

 

[hatsRme]

Considering a first ebay purchase...anyone have tips? How to clean it? Anyone a little bothered by not knowing who's worn the hat before or where it's been?

Sanitary concerns are foremost in my mind, too. Lexol leather cleaner works well, or to my satisfaction.

I'm only aware of one hearsay case of ringworm from a hat, some years back.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

If I wanted to try out a custom made beaver felt fedora who should I consider. I've listed after VS hats and Gannon's look great too. I know there are others and would appreciate any input (and I'd love photos). Thanks in advance.

 

[johnnycanuck]

If I wanted to try out a custom made beaver felt fedora who should I consider. I've listed after VS hats and Gannon's look great too. I know there are others and would appreciate any input (and I'd love photos). Thanks in advance.

A few factors go into that quest. Price? Features? fit? style?
For price Northwest hat are still fantastic.
For options black sheep hat works has some fantastic options from funky hat liners, hat hanging loops, different felt types like heathered felt, patterns for the sweat band.
For fit you need to choose someone who uses hat conformers, that way it fits your head perfectly right out of the box. VS hats has mail order conformers. Four of my custom hats are made by Art.
For Style you have to look at what they are offering. if you want an Indiana Jones hat Penman and Herbert Johnson offer some great reproductions.
hope that helps some.
Johnny

 

[deadlyhandsome]

A few factors go into that quest. Price? Features? fit? style?
For price Northwest hat are still fantastic.
For options black sheep hat works has some fantastic options from funky hat liners, hat hanging loops, different felt types like heathered felt, patterns for the sweat band.
For fit you need to choose someone who uses hat conformers, that way it fits your head perfectly right out of the box. VS hats has mail order conformers. Four of my custom hats are made by Art.
For Style you have to look at what they are offering. if you want an Indiana Jones hat Penman and Herbert Johnson offer some great reproductions.
hope that helps some.
Johnny

It does indeed help. I'm looking at the sub $400 range so nothing over the top. I make periodic trips through Oregon and I'll try to stop by VS you he next time I'm through. Gannon as well. Right now I'm at the point where I'd like to know who the contenders are so I can see which of them offer styles that I like. Up until now I've bought mostly vintage with an occasional new Stetson or Akubra thrown in. With a hat size between 7 5/8 and 7 3/4 it's tough to find good vintage hats, and when I do they are not all that much less than a custom. As for style, I'm kind of all over the place.

Short Balding Guy had better keep his hats under lock and key as it was his photos more than anything else that convinced me to go the custom route. I try to to covet, but that gentleman has some very nice hats.

 

[johnnycanuck]

It does indeed help. I'm looking at the sub $400 range so nothing over the top. I make periodic trips through Oregon and I'll try to stop by VS you he next time I'm through. Gannon as well. Right now I'm at the point where I'd like to know who the contenders are so I can see which of them offer styles that I like. Up until now I've bought mostly vintage with an occasional new Stetson or Akubra thrown in. With a hat size between 7 5/8 and 7 3/4 it's tough to find good vintage hats, and when I do they are not all that much less than a custom. As for style, I'm kind of all over the place.

Short Balding Guy had better keep his hats under lock and key as it was his photos more than anything else that convinced me to go the custom route. I try to to covet, but that gentleman has some very nice hats.

No doubt about it Short Balding Guy has some fantastic hats. Indeed his Gannon look great. I have been very impressed with NorthWest hatters. You can see their works on Facebook. I got all my VS hats before prices went up years ago. Arts ribbon work is second to none. Every new hat I got from him seemed to go up in quality. Last one was eight years ago now. Can't imagine how fantastic his new hats are now. Only other custom hat I have is an Adventurebilt. Fortunately he had LO blocks and I am a perfect 7 3/8 LO so it ended up fitting like a custom hat. I REALLY wanted the perfect Indiana Jones hat - and got it. At the time he was the best. Now there are lots of fantastic options on the market. Good luck and enjoy this process. Biggest thing about custom order process is patience, and try not to second guess yourself to much.
Any questions or requests for pictures let me know.
Johnny

 

[belfastboy]

Considering a first ebay purchase...anyone have tips? How to clean it? Anyone a little bothered by not knowing who's worn the hat before or where it's been?

I always give a vintage hat a good steam, even if it is pristine......I figure it will kill any cooties lurking about. If it is dirty/stained I give it a naptha bath. There is a great and long thread here in the lounge on how to do it. I have purchased very old hats that had no staining whatsoever but just looked "tired". After a naptha bath the colour changed from dull to a like newish sheen. I think older hats can have built up layers of dust and dirt. A naptha bath will take care of it. And I found it great fun once I got over my fear of dumping the hat in white gas!!!!

 

[belfastboy]

It does indeed help. I'm looking at the sub $400 range so nothing over the top. I make periodic trips through Oregon and I'll try to stop by VS you he next time I'm through. Gannon as well. Right now I'm at the point where I'd like to know who the contenders are so I can see which of them offer styles that I like. Up until now I've bought mostly vintage with an occasional new Stetson or Akubra thrown in. With a hat size between 7 5/8 and 7 3/4 it's tough to find good vintage hats, and when I do they are not all that much less than a custom. As for style, I'm kind of all over the place.

Short Balding Guy had better keep his hats under lock and key as it was his photos more than anything else that convinced me to go the custom route. I try to to covet, but that gentleman has some very nice hats.

I have hats from most of the hatters here on the west side of the continent and YES they all do brilliant work. I have 6 of Mike's creations at NW Hats and one on the block, two of Art's and one of Gannon's. All are brilliant hats. One thing to consider is wait times. Art is now at about 6 weeks, Mike is 3 months and not sure about Gannon. Mike at NW Hats has a price point that is hard to pass up. I rate his hats on par with all my customs at a very attractive price. Mike also is great at making a hat to suit my direction. Give him a picture and he can recreate the hat. Art is obviously a master at this as well.
Mike has a brick and mortar shop in Eugene and Art's in Central Point . Central Point is quant little town (the best blue cheese creamery in America) both make for great visits. You can't beat seeing the felt colour in person, way different than even the swatches. Also if you visit them you get the conformateur treatment that guarantees a perfect fit.

 

[belfastboy]

If I wanted to try out a custom made beaver felt fedora who should I consider. I've listed after VS hats and Gannon's look great too. I know there are others and would appreciate any input (and I'd love photos). Thanks in advance.

I also have a BlackSheep hat and Bob does great work. I would order another from him but his lead time is about 9 months right now and to me that is toooo long a wait....esp at my age!

 

[moontheloon]

It does indeed help. I'm looking at the sub $400 range so nothing over the top. I make periodic trips through Oregon and I'll try to stop by VS you he next time I'm through. Gannon as well. Right now I'm at the point where I'd like to know who the contenders are so I can see which of them offer styles that I like. Up until now I've bought mostly vintage with an occasional new Stetson or Akubra thrown in. With a hat size between 7 5/8 and 7 3/4 it's tough to find good vintage hats, and when I do they are not all that much less than a custom. As for style, I'm kind of all over the place.

Short Balding Guy had better keep his hats under lock and key as it was his photos more than anything else that convinced me to go the custom route. I try to to covet, but that gentleman has some very nice hats.

Michael Gannon is the best bang for your buck

I own hats from most custom hatters and his work is on par with the best of them and better than a lot of them ... his lead time is not 6 to 8 months out like most of them ... his communication is far superior to almost all of them ... and while using the same if not higher quality materials his price point is still the lowest.

he will be in contact with you and walk you though every step of the process ... which is not something I could say about some of the hat makers I have worked with ...

I own 5 Gannons ... I also lit the fire on his business around here and now guys like Rodolfo and Eric own upwards of 10 and 12 of them each

every bespoke hatter around here is fantastic ... but for my money Michael Gannon is the guy ... and a hell of a nice guy at that

https://www.instagram.com/gannonhatco/?hl=en

https://gannonhatcompany.com/

 

[BobHufford]

Short Balding Guy had better keep his hats under lock and key...

If you wear 7-5/8 or 7-3/4 then SBG's hats would look a bit odd on you.

 

[Frunobulax]

If you wear 7-5/8 or 7-3/4 then SBG's hats would look a bit odd on you.

Beat me to it!


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[belfastboy]

Michael Gannon is the best bang for your buck

I own hats from most custom hatters and his work is on par with the best of them and better than a lot of them ... his lead time is not 6 to 8 months out like most of them ... his communication is far superior to almost all of them ... and while using the same if not higher quality materials his price point is still the lowest.

he will be in contact with you and walk you though every step of the process ... which is not something I could say about some of the hat makers I have worked with ...

I own 5 Gannons ... I also lit the fire on his business around here and now guys like Rodolfo and Eric own upwards of 10 and 12 of them each

every bespoke hatter around here is fantastic ... but for my money Michael Gannon is the guy ... and a hell of a nice guy at that

https://www.instagram.com/gannonhatco/?hl=en

https://gannonhatcompany.com/

In the interest of accuracy Mike at NW Hats offers a lower price point on both beaver and rabbit felt. Not sure if he offers a by mail conformateur as Art at VS does but if you drop into his shop you will get fitted. It is a small thing but custom hatters where I have the conformateur on file, their hats fit bit better than the ones made just to my measure. A small thing but important in a true bespoke hat.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

In the interest of accuracy Mike at NW Hats offers a lower price point on both beaver and rabbit felt. Not sure if he offers a by mail conformateur as Art at VS does but if you drop into his shop you will get fitted. It is a small thing but custom hatters where I have the conformateur on file, their hats fit bit better than the ones made just to my measure. A small thing but important in a true bespoke hat.

My thinking is that if I'm going to go custom I'm going to go all the way. I'm thinking that VS is my next stop.

 

[moontheloon]

In the interest of accuracy Mike at NW Hats offers a lower price point on both beaver and rabbit felt. Not sure if he offers a by mail conformateur as Art at VS does but if you drop into his shop you will get fitted. It is a small thing but custom hatters where I have the conformateur on file, their hats fit bit better than the ones made just to my measure. A small thing but important in a true bespoke hat.

all of my Gannons fit better than customs where a conformateur was sent ... it is a bit of an overrated unnecessary step in my opinion and tends to confuse people on how to properly use it more than it provides accuracy.


the only thing I found beneficial about using the conformateur was having a band block made from the shape

my 6 best fitting customs are my 5 Gannons and my Penman ... the only 6 where the device was not used ... and no I was not one of those confused about how to use it ... but surprisingly many are

it truly seems to be more of a tradition within the process than a necessity today