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Levallois

Practically Family
Messages
676
Thanks Bamaboots. It’s got a leather backing. I know it’s part of the hat’s history but I would be uncomfortable is this was actually leopard. I don’t know when this practice was stopped.
 
Messages
10,383
Location
vancouver, canada
Let me try again:
Hello all,
I'm looking at a used Bee Hats Dakota 5X Beaver western that I'm considering for a conversion. I don't know anything about the company. Did they make decent hats? Are they worth the effort? Thanks,

Brent
My thinking if the hat is cheap enough go for it. I picked up a real cheap Miller Bros western, mediocre felt and at first I though why waste the effort and then it hit me.....what a perfect hat to practice on.....I screw it up there is no sense of loss at screwing up a perfectly good felt. Could be a perfect hat to practice on. Even if I screwed it up I got my $20 worth of fun and I ended up with a serviceable knockaround hat that I can ruin in good conscience.
 
Messages
11,161
Location
Alabama
Thanks Bamaboots. It’s got a leather backing. I know it’s part of the hat’s history but I would be uncomfortable is this was actually leopard. I don’t know when this practice was stopped.

Hard to say w/o handling it or a DNA test. Bear in mind fur from rabbits can be dyed to give different appearances, which it appears similar to from the pic. I would doubt that it's leopard.
 

RJR

Messages
10,620
Location
Iowa
Hard to say w/o handling it or a DNA test. Bear in mind fur from rabbits can be dyed to give different appearances, which it appears similar to from the pic. I would doubt that it's leopard.
I agree about it beingreal;I can't name the regulation but all trophy furs/hides legally taken outside the US require a certificate or something to get into the country.
 

Levallois

Practically Family
Messages
676
Yeah, I guess it’s anybody’s guess. It’s got two lengths of fur and it’s “rougher” than any rabbit fur I’ve ever touched. It’s on a 1950s era Stetson Nutria Quality. I’ll just keep it on there until told differently. Thanks for your help.
 
Messages
11,161
Location
Alabama
I agree about it beingreal;I can't name the regulation but all trophy furs/hides legally taken outside the US require a certificate or something to get into the country.

Bob, I believe your thinking of CITES. The Certified International Treaty of Endangered Species. The same governing body that covers some of these exotic skins we enjoy on our cowboy boots.
 

Bob Roberts

I'll Lock Up
Messages
11,201
Location
milford ct
Bob, I believe your thinking of CITES. The Certified International Treaty of Endangered Species. The same governing body that covers some of these exotic skins we enjoy on our cowboy boots.
Yes. The same organization that put African Grey parrots on appendix 1. Endangered species.
 

Ken David

One of the Regulars
Messages
274
Location
North Carolina
BEWARE Lexol Destroyed my Sweat!

This is exactly why I don't buy vintage lids. Recently purchased this Royal De Lux Stetson. Wore it barely 2 times. Treated the sweat with lexol after the first wear and now the entire sweat disintegrated :-( Now the sweat is being held with duct tape.
ITEesRx.jpg

XLXyKlX.jpg

My question is I want to wear this lid, should I attempt an after market sweat replacement or search for a era correct donor to keep it original?
 
Last edited:

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,645
BEWARE Lexol Destroyed my Sweat!

This is exactly why I don't buy vintage lids. Recently purchased this Royal De Lux Stetson. Wore it barely 2 times. Treated the sweat with lexol after the first wear and now the entire sweat disintegrated :-( Now the sweat is being held with duct tape.

ITEesRx.jpg

XLXyKlX.jpg


m1LPLoN.jpg

My question is I want to wear this lid, should I attempt an after market sweat replacement or search for a era correct donor to keep it original?
K.D. I’ve read on the lounge of this very type disintegration but have never seen it. That’s impressive, sorry!! Some extol Lexol and the like treatments to revitalize as well as for maintenance. Others not so much. I had the same sweat issue with a old Stetson 100. Finding a good band bad hat combo is tough but if you are patient and require a period, style correct sweat it can be done. I did it and am still looking for the Borsa Gorgasu etc. Others here might have just what you need as well. Don’t give up. Good luck. Be well. Bowen
 

Bob Roberts

I'll Lock Up
Messages
11,201
Location
milford ct
BEWARE Lexol Destroyed my Sweat!

This is exactly why I don't buy vintage lids. Recently purchased this Royal De Lux Stetson. Wore it barely 2 times. Treated the sweat with lexol after the first wear and now the entire sweat disintegrated :-( Now the sweat is being held with duct tape.
ITEesRx.jpg

XLXyKlX.jpg

My question is I want to wear this lid, should I attempt an after market sweat replacement or search for a era correct donor to keep it original?
I only use Bickmore products. If there's no stitching and I don't mind darkening the leather pure Neatsfoot oil is my choice.
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,645
K.D. I’ve read on the lounge of this very type disintegration but have never seen it. That’s impressive, sorry!! Some extol Lexol and the like treatments to revitalize as well as for maintenance. Others not so much. I had the same sweat issue with a old Stetson 100. Finding a good band bad hat combo is tough but if you are patient and require a period, style correct sweat it can be done. I did it and am still looking for the Borsa Gorgasu etc. Others here might have just what you need as well. Don’t give up. Good luck. Be well. Bowen
K. D.: an aside. There are some very interesting literatures out there by professional leather restoration people concerning what conditioners are best for what leather type and use. I figure a museum leather expert knows more than i do. What i got from all that literature applied to hats is this. It ALL depends on the type, qaulity, age and use/abuse of the leather used in the sweat in question. I don’t think there is any one anything good for everything especially hats. My 2 cents. Be well. Bowen
 

Ken David

One of the Regulars
Messages
274
Location
North Carolina
K. D.: an aside. There are some very interesting literatures out there by professional leather restoration people concerning what conditioners are best for what leather type and use. I figure a museum leather expert knows more than i do. What i got from all that literature applied to hats is this. It ALL depends on the type, qaulity, age and use/abuse of the leather used in the sweat in question. I don’t think there is any one anything good for everything especially hats. My 2 cents. Be well. Bowen
Thanks for the info Bowen, very informative. Painful learning experience. Gonna save the Lexol for my redwing leather boots!
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,645
Thanks for the info Bowen, very informative. Painful learning experience. Gonna save the Lexol for my redwing leather boots!
K.D.: just my 2 cents. Thanks. I would REALLY like to know about that band. Upon zooming in it appears as if maybe the finish on the sweat was holding together an already friable leather. Idk. I see some small stress cracks and alittle “spalling” around the reed in the before pics but??? Was it pliable at all before the Lexol? I’ve never had trouble with Lexol but one never knows. Be well. Bowen
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,645
I've had some bad results, too, and have stopped using Lexol on my sweats.
Hello Sir: i certainly do not disagree with your post. I recall your posts on that subject when i was researching and took heed. Ken’s pic before and after are the first i have seen of catastrophic disintegration! Think i have been lucky but i try NOT to use it on sweats i consider very fragile and friable. I’ve had the greatest result, it seems, on older high quality bands that don’t seem to have a “finish” on them such as Dobbs Rainbow etc. Maybe worn off?? Idk my 2cents. Thanks. Be well. Bowen
 

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