Jacket shoulder vent identification request

[Creeping Past]

As often happens on days off, I've taken to appreciating the clothes in the movies and TV programmes I'm watching more than the plots.

There's no easy way of admitting these two things, but I've been viewing old Buffy episodes and I'm stumped by a particular kind of action back.

I want to know what the pleats in Giles's tweed jacket are called. Is there a specific name for pleats that stop just under the armhole and don't go the whole way down to a halfbelt?

Image follows, heaven help me:

 

[reetpleat]

There is a specific name for it. I'll be danged if I can remember it though.

Maybe they are just sleeve vents or vented shoulders. I think I used to sometimes call it an action back, as opposed to a belted back.

 

[thunderw21]

I'd call that a bi-swing back.

 

[Creeping Past]

Thanks, Thunder.

That'll help when asking a tailor to include that detail on a jacket I'm planning...

 

[H.Johnson]

I've heard it called an action back or bi-swing back (depending where you are from).

When specifying to a tailor, note that there are two types - one that goes straight down (often to a false half-belt) and another (as in the photo) that starts from the top of the shoulder and curves under the arms. I have a suit with this feature and it's very practical. I like it.

 

[Creeping Past]

Thanks, chaps. I'm spared the ignominy of requesting 'a jacket like The Watcher's'.

 

[H.Johnson]

The best examples of this type of construction are often on leather motorcycle jackets.

 

[Creeping Past]

Unless I'm misreading photos on their site, which given my lack of general garment knowledge is possible, I don't see the 'around the shoulder' bi-swing on Aero jackets. That's a shame.

 

[Lone_Ranger]

Thanks, Thunder.

That'll help when asking a tailor to include that detail on a jacket I'm planning...

If you're looking for a tweed jacket with that feature, try tweed-jacket.com
they do great work, and the owner, is a member here. I think they call it an "action shoulder pleat." Also available with Alcantara trim. Great feature to have in a sport coat.

 

[Creeping Past]

Thanks, Lone. I'm not convinced that that company's arm scye (I think this is the right term) is high enough or small enough for my purposes. There's a thread dealing with this subject somewhere. I can't locate it at the moment...