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gtdean48 · Dec 22, 2010

Gumbo Book said:
Hmmm.

I thought water contracted the fibres ( over time ) and the use of steam - expand them. ( great advice for getting my akubra in the new year...can't wait! )

Steam will relax the shellac in the felt & as it cools will set the stiffness back. Just wetting will relax the shellac some but drying won't necessarily recharge the stiffness. A hat worn in the rain over time gets softer & softer but if you steam & shape it, it seems to return some of the stiffness. JMHO

Gumbo Book · Dec 22, 2010

gtdean48 said:
Steam will relax the shellac in the felt & as it cools will set the stiffness back. Just wetting will relax the shellac some but drying won't necessarily recharge the stiffness. A hat worn in the rain over time gets softer & softer but if you steam & shape it, it seems to return some of the stiffness. JMHO

I thought so. Thanks. I am experimenting in the new year with some felt bodies and want to get it right. ( As for as the supplier tells me it's heavy weight 220g ) So I'll just have to make mistake after mistake. I also want to avoide shrinkage - I've read shrinkage is due the amount of air pockets in the felt that contract. Less obvious in the brim but more noticable in the crown.

I have vintage hats. And believe me, I have been caught not just in rain, but downpour after downpour and these hat "still" keep their shape. Other modern hats just don't seem to. Although I figure I must be asking too much, would this require a denser more compact felt?

Too much shellac would damage the felt no?. ( many years ago I used starch - but this appears to damage and shrink beyond compare )

( I have had many-many sleepless nights devoted the nature of fur felt - strange to some it may appear I'm sure)

My apologies for prattling on.

Gumbo.

Gumbo Book · Dec 23, 2010

A new question.

brim cutters or rounding jacks. Anyone know where to get one?

Thanks.

Gumbo.

gpsoldhat · Dec 23, 2010

I think there is a rounding jack in the classifieds

gpsoldhat · Dec 23, 2010

I have a question about a Stetson firenza I got off eBay. It seems to be what I would call nappy or fuzzy. I was brushing it and a small amount came off on the brush. Is this normal? Thanks

St.Ignatz · Dec 23, 2010

Pretty normal. What kind of brush and are you going counter on top and clockwise underneath?
Tom D.

gpsoldhat · Dec 23, 2010

A small black bristle brush. It's fairly soft. Bit I was brushing it the opposite of what you said. Maybe that's part of the problem. It was supposed to have only Been worn a couple of times and was in the original box with the plastic protector but looked dusty. Thanks for the help. I probably should have researched this on hat care thread before doing it. Jim b

JJR512 · Dec 24, 2010

What is the difference between reblocking and reflanging?

Neophyte · Dec 24, 2010

JJR512 said:
What is the difference between reblocking and reflanging?

Reblocking involves the crown, while reflanging involves the brim.

Neophyte · Dec 24, 2010

I posted this question in the "Western, Anyone?" thread as well, but I figure I'd post it here:

Is there a notable difference in the stiffness and durability of a western hat made of different grades of fur? Considering the stiffness of a proper western hat, would it make much of a difference in the long term if one was made of all rabbit or all beaver?

It would seem to me that unless you want a soft western, the quality level of the fur wouldn't factor in that much when looking at hats. Where dress hats are concerned, beaver fur in general is considered to provide a nicer quality of felt, which is desirable for a dress hat. Do those same preconceptions carry over to the western style?

JJR512 · Dec 24, 2010

Neophyte said:
I posted this question in the "Western, Anyone?" thread as well, but I figure I'd post it here:

Is there a notable difference in the stiffness and durability of a western hat made of different grades of fur? Considering the stiffness of a proper western hat, would it make much of a difference in the long term if one was made of all rabbit or all beaver?

It would seem to me that unless you want a soft western, the quality level of the fur wouldn't factor in that much when looking at hats. Where dress hats are concerned, beaver fur in general is considered to provide a nicer quality of felt, which is desirable for a dress hat. Do those same preconceptions carry over to the western style?

Consider this...

For an all weather hat - you can't beat a pure beaver cowboy hat. Light, stiff, and fabulous looking it'll shed what ever comes it's way. And consider this: Beavers live in the water, rabbits in the dirt. 'Nuff said.

http://www.thelastbestwest.com/popups/cowboy_hat_facts.html#FurFelt

Neophyte · Dec 24, 2010

JJR512 said:
Consider this...

http://www.thelastbestwest.com/popups/cowboy_hat_facts.html#FurFelt

Thanks for the reference

. However, after being exposed to the massive quantities of information available here on the Lounge, that kind of "here's a general comparison, now trust me on the details" pitch just doesn't cut it for me. This is no dig on the company, (product looks amazing), but a general comparison of animal habitats, without any additional supporting info or information about the different qualities of felt, isn't enough information for the informed customer.lol

I'm wondering if a pure beaver cowboy hat would keep it's shape, stiffness, and texture drastically longer than a pure rabbit cowboy hat. The price difference is pretty extreme, and as I have a very utilitarian perspective when it comes to long-term purchases, I'd like to know that there's a sizable payout difference to justify the large price gap, other than just the luxury of a pure beaver hat.

This is my mindset right now: beaver is harder to obtain, but [in general] provides a denser, more malleable felt that is slightly more water-resistant, in addition to being very soft.

Being that a western hat is usually stiff, the only advantage listed above that would be useful is the improved water-resistance. Are there factors I am not considering?

NEVERMIND: Question answered in another thread.

rlk · Dec 24, 2010

danofarlington said:
I am curious about the vintage of the range of vintage hats acquired from E Bay, second-hand stores, attics, and so on as seen on TFL. The decade of origin is the best way to address it, in my view. I wonder if the survey-adept folks on TFL might get one going about people's estimates of the distribution of decades of old hats seen to be bought on TFL? This is my own opinion, based on what I've seen.

Before 1920: less than 1% (neglible) [1]
1920-30: 5% [3]
1930-40: 15% [8]
1940-50: 30% [30]
1950-60: 30% [43]
1960-70: 20% [15]

I realize that E Bay has many more recent-vintage hats, but they are not being shown here, and so I have no interest. Is this an interesting survey?

Numbers in brackets my guestimation. Far fewer 30's hats and far more 50's hats than people want to believe they find. Fewer survivors available as you go back. Low 60's for relative lack of interest in shorter brims and crowns here.

danofarlington · Dec 24, 2010

rlk said:
Numbers in brackets my guestimation. Far fewer 30's hats and far more 50's hats than people want to believe they find. Fewer survivors available as you go back. Low 60's for relative lack of interest in shorter brims and crowns here.

Very interesting.

jimmy the lid · Dec 24, 2010

danofarlington said:
I am curious about the vintage of the range of vintage hats acquired from E Bay, second-hand stores, attics, and so on as seen on TFL. The decade of origin is the best way to address it, in my view. I wonder if the survey-adept folks on TFL might get one going about people's estimates of the distribution of decades of old hats seen to be bought on TFL? This is my own opinion, based on what I've seen.

Before 1920: less than 1% (neglible)
1920-30: 5% [3]
1930-40: 15% [8]
1940-50: 30% [30]
1950-60: 30% [43]
1960-70: 20% [15]

I realize that E Bay has many more recent-vintage hats, but they are not being shown here, and so I have no interest. Is this an interesting survey?

I do think that it's an interesting survey. In general, I tend to agree with rlk's assessment (shown in brackets) that there are fewer lids in the 1920 to 1940 range. I do agree with you, Dan, that 20% is probably close on the 1960's hats.

I think most people overestimate the number of lids that are actually from the 40's -- particularly early/mid 40's (in many cases, this may be a function of general, uninformed, information tossed out there by an eBay seller). Seems to me that most 40's lids that actually show up here are post-war/late 40's. I might put 40's lids in the 20 to 25% range. I agree that the bulk of the vintage lids that make their way to the Lounge are from the 50's.

Interesting...

Cheers,
JtL

rlk · Dec 24, 2010

jimmy the lid said:
I do think that it's an interesting survey. In general, I tend to agree with rlk's assessment (shown in brackets) that there are fewer lids in the 1920 to 1940 range. I do agree with you, Dan, that 20% is probably close on the 1960's hats.

I think most people overestimate the number of lids that are actually from the 40's -- particularly early/mid 40's (in many cases, this may be a function of general, uninformed, information tossed out there by an eBay seller). Seems to me that most 40's lids that actually show up here are post-war/late 40's. I might put 40's lids in the 20 to 25% range. I agree that the bulk of the vintage lids that make their way to the Lounge are from the 50's.

Interesting...

Cheers,
JtL

Absolutely, I would put the 1945-55 range at the peak, probably around 60% of what we see here. A lot of OR's and Borsalino are likely 60's and 70's.

Mr Vim · Dec 25, 2010

Anyone own a new Stetson Nostalgia? I'm looking at them online, but I would welcome anyones advice on the matter.

andreasmario · Dec 25, 2010

time worn by eastman

how and what do they do, in order to get that look details pleas ?
thank you
Andreas

T Rick · Dec 25, 2010

andreasmario said:
how and what do they do, in order to get that look details pleas ?
thank you
Andreas

Are you talking about Jackets? :eusa_doh: I think you've accidentally posted in the wrong area. They do make some great looking jackets though!

Oh, and Welcome to The Lounge, and Merry Christmas!

Neophyte · Dec 25, 2010

Mr Vim said:
Anyone own a new Stetson Nostalgia? I'm looking at them online, but I would welcome anyones advice on the matter.

Talk to B.J. Hedberg, he's got a new one I believe. So does Mr. E Train, but he's on less frequently than Hedberg. Good luck, and Merry Christmas!

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