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[Cam T.]

Selfridge London opera/gibus hat ($30 estate sale). I'll have to take a look and see if Mr Selfridge is wearing his own hat when he goes to the opera. It seems to be green, which seems odd or is it just faded black? Any thoughts on surface cleaning. I blew it out with air and tried a velvet lint brush, but it seemed a bit grabby. I don't have a hat brush.

 

[Snowman]

Hello Everyone can someone help me with the identification of this hat (model / age/ vintage ?) ? It's a Stetson Royal deluxe by Henri Henri here a few photos to check...
Thank you very much for your opinions

The sweat says “Royal DeLuxe Stetson” but the liner says “Royal Stetson DeLuxe.” I haven’t seen that mismatch in a vintage hat, but I’m sure it happens.

 

[Rmccamey]

Hi All -- Lelewer Chicago bowler hat ($20 estate sale). The hat was in pretty good shape, but the liner was loose and mildewy so I pulled it out. Thoughts on cleaning, glueing or necessity of even having a lining. I've brushed the hat off with a velvet lint brush and tried to steam out a couple of dings, which from the pic needs a bit more work. The glue in the sweat band has failed in couple of small spots thoughts on glue or should I leave it. Overall it cleaned up great. Thanks for thoughts or advice.

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The brim binding looks to be in decent shape, so that is half the battle on old bowlers. Many here prefer to see as much of the provenance maintained as possible, so I would reinstall the liner. You can go the DIY route but most competent hatters can do a great cleanup on the old hats, and they may be able to save the sweatband as well. It doesn't cost anything to ask. Snap a handful of good, up close photos and do some checking.

 

[Jackalone]

The sweat says “Royal DeLuxe Stetson” but the liner says “Royal Stetson DeLuxe.” I haven’t seen that mismatch in a vintage hat, but I’m sure it happens.

Got a message from the original buyer , he said he bought it in Montreal in the early 90s... It was too tight and he never wore it..

 

[Snowman]

When measuring brim width, do most of you measure the top side from the ribbon to the edge, or do you measure the bottom from edge to edge? I have noticed that when I look at some of my brims, I think “that really can’t be right” and I get as much an 1/8“ difference when comparing top and bottom measurements. (I use a flexible cloth tape to measure, by the way, so I can get the contour right).

 

[belfastboy]

When measuring brim width, do most of you measure the top side from the ribbon to the edge, or do you measure the bottom from edge to edge? I have noticed that when I look at some of my brims, I think “that really can’t be right” and I get as much an 1/8“ difference when comparing top and bottom measurements. (I use a flexible cloth tape to measure, by the way, so I can get the contour right).

I measure top side, crown ribbon to edge. It seems to be the most accurate.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

When measuring brim width, do most of you measure the top side from the ribbon to the edge, or do you measure the bottom from edge to edge? I have noticed that when I look at some of my brims, I think “that really can’t be right” and I get as much an 1/8“ difference when comparing top and bottom measurements. (I use a flexible cloth tape to measure, by the way, so I can get the contour right).

I do the top side too. As the rounding jack indexes on the crown from the outside, I think the top measurement makes the most sense.

 

[Snowman]

I do the top side too. As the rounding jack indexes on the crown from the outside, I think the top measurement makes the most sense.

I measure top side, crown ribbon to edge. It seems to be the most accurate.

Thank you, gentlemen. That’s how I have been doing it, but for some reason I thought “what if I did it this way?”

 

[belfastboy]

Thank you, gentlemen. That’s how I have been doing it, but for some reason I thought “what if I did it this way?”

I too have played around with it but for me the settling aspect was mass produced hats that have a stated dimension for me the most accurate way of checking was measuring the top side.

 

[glider]

It seems that Stetson now offers 3 Stratoliners, a stratoliner not identified as anything except stratoliner, an ultralite and a pure stratoliner. On their web page there is no mention of a royal deluxe and no X rating on any of them. Of course, we know the pure stratoliner is pure beaver but no idea what the other 2 are. Hell, they may not even be fur felt, I would assume they are but they don't say that. Stetson needs to get there advertising fixed! Does anyone know what they are doing with the stratoliner ?

 

[AndyR]

I can't really say for sure what the felt is, but it looks like the felt on the lightweight does not get finished to the utmost. Just by looking at the picture, the outside of the Lightweight looks a little more like the inside of the Stratoliner I got recently.

Either that or could it possibly be wool? Would it be called wool felt or is that a misnomer? I believe the regular Stratoliner is rabbit fur felt, but it's much smoother than what I see in the picture of the lightweight.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

It seems that Stetson now offers 3 Stratoliners, a stratoliner not identified as anything except stratoliner, an ultralite and a pure stratoliner. On their web page there is no mention of a royal deluxe and no X rating on any of them. Of course, we know the pure stratoliner is pure beaver but no idea what the other 2 are. Hell, they may not even be fur felt, I would assume they are but they don't say that. Stetson needs to get there advertising fixed! Does anyone know what they are doing with the stratoliner ?

The Stratoliner without any designation has the Royal liner so its fur felt…barely It certainly isn’t the Premier/Royal DeLuxe.

The Pure speaks for itself.

The ultralight is supposed to have that textured finish and it’s not a product of not being pounced as finely (I realize you didn’t say it was). I like the finish, but I can see how it could be polarizing. I don’t see any quality designation, but I strongly suspect it’s fur felt…all rabbit along the same line as the Royal? Wool products, including wool blends, are required by law to disclose the wool content. No such law for fur. The lack of wool disclosure makes me think it’s 100% fur felt.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I can't really say for sure what the felt is, but it looks like the felt on the lightweight does not get finished to the utmost. Just by looking at the picture, the outside of the Lightweight looks a little more like the inside of the Stratoliner I got recently.

Either that or could it possibly be wool? Would it be called wool felt or is that a misnomer? I believe the regular Stratoliner is rabbit fur felt, but it's much smoother than what I see in the picture of the lightweight.

You can felt all sorts of fibers. Felting is a process and not a type of fiber…Stetson once felted plastic in with furs (back when plastics were the new super material and not seen as a cheap alternative). In the early part of the 20th century there were some incredible felted wool hats. Europe in particular made some amazing felted wool hats that have no resemblance to modern felted wool hat.

The ultralight is supposed to have that finish. I think it looks good and is a nice break for the ordinary, but I can see how not everyone will feel the same.

 

[belfastboy]

You can felt all sorts of fibers. Felting is a process and not a type of fiber…Stetson once felted plastic in with furs (back when plastics were the new super material and not seen as a cheap alternative). In the early part of the 20th century there were some incredible felted wool hats. Europe in particular made some amazing felted wool hats that have no resemblance to modern felted wool hat.

The ultralight is supposed to have that finish. I think it looks good and is a nice break for the ordinary, but I can see how not everyone will feel the same.

I received an email today from a company in Peru advertising felted Alpaca wool hats. If they offered just the felts and not finished hats I would try one just for the experience.

 

[jlee562]

I like the look of the ultralight as well. Probably because I have a heather grey hat already. Isn't the nap on heathered felts usually left a bit longer? That's been the case with a lot of the ones that I've seen.

 

[MikeinRome]

Both Crofut & Knapp (C&K) and StylePark Templeform made hats called "Aristo Supreme". Does this mean C&K made the StylePark line of hats? If not, seems like someone was infringing on a copyright, etc. Since C&K was bought by Hat Corporation of America in 1932, it's not possible that StylePark could own C&K. Did Stylepark become part of Hatco?

 

[belfastboy]

I like the look of the ultralight as well. Probably because I have a heather grey hat already. Isn't the nap on heathered felts usually left a bit longer? That's been the case with a lot of the ones that I've seen.

I only have had the heathered felts from Tonak and they have been long haired....not a velour but a definite longer haired finis.

 

[AndyR]

You can felt all sorts of fibers. Felting is a process and not a type of fiber…Stetson once felted plastic in with furs (back when plastics were the new super material and not seen as a cheap alternative). In the early part of the 20th century there were some incredible felted wool hats. Europe in particular made some amazing felted wool hats that have no resemblance to modern felted wool hat.

The ultralight is supposed to have that finish. I think it looks good and is a nice break for the ordinary, but I can see how not everyone will feel the same.

Thanks for the education! Great info.

 

[Blare]

Both Crofut & Knapp (C&K) and StylePark Templeform made hats called "Aristo Supreme". Does this mean C&K made the StylePark line of hats or vice versa? If not, seems like someone was infringing on a copyright, etc.

Anything is possible. I do know that Stylepark did indeed at some points have their own factories. I want to say at least Camden, philly and Ct. CAndK did a lot of buying up and consolidating in the mid 30s. A lot of the older big names came under their umbrella. I hadn't heard Stylepark. But it is very possible

 

[glider]

Thanks for the replies! The Ultralite appeals to me , maybe this coming spring, however a Strat needs to be a Royal DeLuxe or a pure and a pure is a bit more than I would be comfortable with. I have a Royal DeLuxe Strat and it is very pliable and actually pretty light.