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M Hatman

M Hatman

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,364
Location
Broken Illinois, where we even tax you on the tax!
deadlyhandsome said:
High to low:

Excellent
Premier
Royal DeLuxe
Royal

Not all hats are available in all quality levels and it varies year to year.

Fall 2017 city hats catalog link:
http://www.hat-co.com/perch//resources/f17stetsoncitydigital.pdf
Click to expand...
On page nine (where the catalog shows the Premier Whippets and Strats) it clearly designates "Royal Deluxe" at the top of the page. All the offerings on that page (plus many other pages as indicated at the top of each) are Royal Deluxe.
Best,
M
 
deadlyhandsome

deadlyhandsome

Messages
18,936
Location
Central California
M Hatman said:
On page nine (where the catalog shows the Premier Whippets and Strats) it clearly designates "Royal Deluxe" at the top of the page. All the offerings on that page (plus many other pages as indicated at the top of each) are Royal Deluxe.
Best,
M
Click to expand...

Yeah, and saw that in the catalog too. I think I'm pummeling the deceased equine again. I think I read too much in to Anthony's earlier posts and the normal differences in felts and packaging.
 
Frunobulax

Frunobulax

Messages
19,124
Location
Funkytown, USA
M Hatman said:
One other thought on the perception of quality sizing can greatly effect the feel of even the same quality felt. many of the standard factory creased (pressed) hats have considerably more sizing (stiffener) than others.....also most all the open crowns have a LOT less stiffener than their pressed counterparts.....giving the felt a softer hand and thus feeling of "higher" quality.
Click to expand...

Well, at least I can take satisfaction in having the one color you don't. [emoji14]


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Milpro

Milpro

New in Town
Messages
22
Location
Ohio
M Hatman said:
Looks nice......I did up my Premier Strat in silverbelly like that with the front and rear pinches......gives it a sort of 20's vibe as they did that then......that hat gets me a lot of compliments.......
Really like the shark gill bow on yours.....someone here will be able to give you more info about your hat.
Best,
M
Click to expand...

I cleaned it and gabe it a heavy steaming then ironed the brim. It had a harsh curl to it that wasn't right. It took the iron well and went back to it's normal shape. I also had to repair the Biltmore pin because the stickpin fell off when I removed it prior to cleaning.

It turned out beautiful.
 

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Bugleboy10

Bugleboy10

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
Los Angeles
Does a black fedora with a silver band look good on a medium gray suit? Thinking of getting the Biltmore Park Ave, which will probably only be worn with that one suit. The shirt and tie to go with it will vary. And does anyone know for sure if that's a silver band? One retailer mentions a silver print band, while another makes no mention of it.
163840.jpg
 
cozy d

cozy d

Familiar Face
Messages
80
Location
san diego, california
Frunobulax said:
That's an unreeded sweat, so it's not even that simple. This sweatband is attached directly to the felt.

Sent directly from my mind to yours.
Click to expand...

UPDATE: I'm really starting to like this hat, the styling looks very interesting and cool, it is very comfortable, and the felt feels really nice, it's relatively thin, and "beavery" (should I use that word?). It's become clear to me however, that this sweatband shouldn't be reused (it's cracking), but I may still try to use some double-sided tape to see how long it will last.

I'm writing to ask about the sweatband stitching. One very weird thing about this hat is that, when you look from the bottom, the sweatband is obviously stitched directly to the felt, but I've looked all around the top of the hat and when viewed from the top, there is no evidence of the sweatband stitching anywhere on the top side. I've got about a dozen quality felt fedoras and western hats and on every one of them you can see and feel the stitches under the hatband/ribbon where the sweat was stitched in. It's like the stitches on this one only go half way through the felt??

Here's the view from the bottom, notice the cracking that has shown up since I've been messing with it, you can see the stitch that holds the hatband in, but this picture is meant to show a bottom view of the way the sweat is sewn into the felt.... https://photos.app.goo.gl/wPix1tCewGLC2b793

Now look from the top side... there is no stitching...see... https://photos.app.goo.gl/iLBs5iaQMvFruT6b2 you can look/feel all around and I don't think you will find any sweatband threads coming through the top. Is this unusual?? Can you expect someone to replace the sweat and be able to duplicate this kind of discreet stitching?
 
Frunobulax

Frunobulax

Messages
19,124
Location
Funkytown, USA
cozy d said:
UPDATE: I'm really starting to like this hat, the styling looks very interesting and cool, it is very comfortable, and the felt feels really nice, it's relatively thin, and "beavery" (should I use that word?). It's become clear to me however, that this sweatband shouldn't be reused (it's cracking), but I may still try to use some double-sided tape to see how long it will last.

I'm writing to ask about the sweatband stitching. One very weird thing about this hat is that, when you look from the bottom, the sweatband is obviously stitched directly to the felt, but I've looked all around the top of the hat and when viewed from the top, there is no evidence of the sweatband stitching anywhere on the top side. I've got about a dozen quality felt fedoras and western hats and on every one of them you can see and feel the stitches under the hatband/ribbon where the sweat was stitched in. It's like the stitches on this one only go half way through the felt??

Here's the view from the bottom, notice the cracking that has shown up since I've been messing with it, you can see the stitch that holds the hatband in, but this picture is meant to show a bottom view of the way the sweat is sewn into the felt.... https://photos.app.goo.gl/wPix1tCewGLC2b793

Now look from the top side... there is no stitching...see... https://photos.app.goo.gl/iLBs5iaQMvFruT6b2 you can look/feel all around and I don't think you will find any sweatband threads coming through the top. Is this unusual?? Can you expect someone to replace the sweat and be able to duplicate this kind of discreet stitching?
Click to expand...

Reeded sweats and unreeded sweats are attached in a different manner. Yes, the stitching on yours only goes halfway through the felt. Though I think some are talented enough to do this by hand, most were done using a specialty machine that performed this action. I'm not sure which, if any, of our custom hatters will still tackle an unreeded sweat. With a reeded sweatband, the leather is attached to a sheathed monofilament reed with a backing on it. This backing is sewn to the hat as you mention, with the stitching going through the felt. This stitching is then hidden by the hat's ribbon.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
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