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Messages
15,023
Location
Buffalo, NY
What kind of hat is this...

Some might call it a cloth hat, which is sewn from cut pieces, unlike a felt hat which is formed from a single piece of felted material. Here is one with a spiral stitched brim like yours... from the first decade of the 20th century.

irishtweed2.jpg


irishtweed1.jpg
 

seematt

New in Town
Messages
2
I had a recent score at a auction for a big lot of hats. I found this fedora in it, and after some googling I cant find much information relating to the company.
The label inside reads "Genuine Fur HANLEY HALL HATS Made in Canada Bilt by Biltmore" , just thought I'd check if anyone has any information on the hat?



 

moontheloon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,590
Location
NJ
I had a recent score at a auction for a big lot of hats. I found this fedora in it, and after some googling I cant find much information relating to the company.
The label inside reads "Genuine Fur HANLEY HALL HATS Made in Canada Bilt by Biltmore" , just thought I'd check if anyone has any information on the hat?



there is some info on the Biltmore Hanley Hall on this PDF #6 & #8

doesn't sound much like the hat pictured though ... they are more than likely talking about a much earlier rendition

but it's a start

http://www.collectionscanada.gc.ca/obj/029006/f2/nlc004043.159.pdf
 

Ken David

One of the Regulars
Messages
274
Location
North Carolina
Opinions on what I should do with this Vintage Stetson....

My only real vintage hat is this Stetson Select quality, perfect felt, brim width is 2 5/8", crown with center bash 5 ½”. Sweatband shows it’s age, no liner. Size 7 1/2” but probably closer to a large 7 3/8” due to age/shrinkage. I was considering a couple of things: Maybe getting it re-blocked, new sweat and liner and updated ribbon (different color) but maybe $ would be better spent if I sold it and put it towards a custom (normally would not of gotten a black hat) or I can maybe try purchasing a new liner, replacement sweat and some vintage ribbon and giving it a try (although I will not be able to re-block to a smaller size)? Any opinions or thoughts?







 

moontheloon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,590
Location
NJ
Opinions on what I should do with this Vintage Stetson....

My only real vintage hat is this Stetson Select quality, perfect felt, brim width is 2 5/8", crown with center bash 5 ½”. Sweatband shows it’s age, no liner. Size 7 1/2” but probably closer to a large 7 3/8” due to age/shrinkage. I was considering a couple of things: Maybe getting it re-blocked, new sweat and liner and updated ribbon (different color) but maybe $ would be better spent if I sold it and put it towards a custom (normally would not of gotten a black hat) or I can maybe try purchasing a new liner, replacement sweat and some vintage ribbon and giving it a try (although I will not be able to re-block to a smaller size)? Any opinions or thoughts?







Do not do anything to that hat!!!
The sweat is beautiful and it never had a liner
Trust me ... do not alter it in any way!!!
I would bet it is from the 1930s ...?.... possibly older
@carouselvic @alanfgag would I be in the ballpark ?
 
Last edited:

Andykev

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,118
Location
The Beautiful Diablo Valley
Opinions on what I should do with this Vintage Stetson....

My only real vintage hat is this Stetson Select quality, perfect felt, brim width is 2 5/8", crown with center bash 5 ½”. Sweatband shows it’s age, no liner. Size 7 1/2” but probably closer to a large 7 3/8” due to age/shrinkage. I was considering a couple of things: Maybe getting it re-blocked, new sweat and liner and updated ribbon (different color) but maybe $ would be better spent if I sold it and put it towards a custom (normally would not of gotten a black hat) or I can maybe try purchasing a new liner, replacement sweat and some vintage ribbon and giving it a try (although I will not be able to re-block to a smaller size)? Any opinions or thoughts?


This hat did not come with a liner, it was likely a summer weight. Can't tell from the felt. Does it fit you?

The sweatband (leather) is showing age and looks to have some cracking. You might try a good leather conditioner sparingly to return some of the suppleness.
The ribbon should not be changed. I would only suggest a professional clean and block. Can't see all the felt, so assuming no mothing..this is a keeper.
An everyday wearing might necessitate a new sweatband, and you can retain the old one for historical value. Inner labels are important (reorder labels).

Nice hat. OH I CAN'T BELIEVE I SAID THAT! (inside joke... we used to have tons of posts from people and all they said was ...nice hat. Drove me nuts).
 

Ken David

One of the Regulars
Messages
274
Location
North Carolina
Do not do anything to that hat!!!
The sweat is beautiful and it never had a liner
Trust me ... do not alter it in any way!!!
I would bet it is from the 1930s ...?.... possibly older
@carouselvic @alanfgag would I be in the ballpark ?

I was thinking it was from the 30s after spending much time searching the forum (was going to post when I got the hat but did not want to clog up the thread with the same old questions)

This hat did not come with a liner, it was likely a summer weight. Can't tell from the felt. Does it fit you?

The sweatband (leather) is showing age and looks to have some cracking. You might try a good leather conditioner sparingly to return some of the suppleness.
The ribbon should not be changed. I would only suggest a professional clean and block. Can't see all the felt, so assuming no mothing..this is a keeper.
An everyday wearing might necessitate a new sweatband, and you can retain the old one for historical value. Inner labels are important (reorder labels).

Nice hat. OH I CAN'T BELIEVE I SAID THAT! (inside joke... we used to have tons of posts from people and all they said was ...nice hat. Drove me nuts).

The felt is very light weight and smooth although stiffer than the beaver customs I have. It fits but on the loose side, which is ok since it does not put much stress on the aging sweatband. I wondered about the liner, thanks for the info. Absolutely no mothing whatsoever. When I got this hat along with my used beaver customs I finally came to the realization why vintage and customs are sought after (rather than the moderns), without holding the felt in your hand I had no clue!!!!

Also the lack of a sewn seam on the sweatband says pre 30's on a Stetson.
Wow, thanks for the info, I did not think it was that old! After seeing tommyK's post on his "excellent quality" in the same size and what looked like a very similar hat (ribbon etc) but excellent vs select I thought I'd post this. Maybe I should of put it in "what you are wearing" but honestly after seeing everyday the multitude of fine vintage hats that do not even compare to anything in my modest collection.
 

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