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[Rmccamey]

Mike Miller at Northwest Hats has helped me with sweatband repairs/resewing on several of my old bowlers.

 

[belfastboy]

I don’t really know. A couple yrs ago he posted he was closing his order book in order to get caught up. I would rate the hat he made custom for me among the nicest I have, as vintage as could be built today & not just a fashion hat.

I was remembering all the restoration work he used to do for Grant & MikesPens.

Yes, I have just one of Bob's creations. I had another order in his queue but cancelled after one year wait. He is one of the great ones and a mystery where he is with hatting. . His IG and FB page posts are 2 full years old.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

You can buy a single block and reblock your hats on that in theory. In practice, you will be undoing the combination of design elements that makes that hat unique. For example, the #52 block is very straight sided, while the #51 block has some taper to it. The difference is minimal to the untrained eye, but it will be different.

Same thing with the flange, yes, you can buy one flange and use it on all your hats. But they're all going to have the same profile. There's no universal, generic flange which you could then tweak by hand to a different profile.

Excellent post Jared. More than you will ever know. Should be a sticky & required reading & comprehension for all FL newbies.

 

[Jimmy__patt]

Hey, would anybody be able to provide some history/background on this western hat. Tag inside says it was $30 which I imagine would be pretty expensive for back in the day. Also, would anybody be interested in buying it?

 

[The Hatted Professor]

Hey, would anybody be able to provide some history/background on this western hat. Tag inside says it was $30 which I imagine would be pretty expensive for back in the day. Also, would anybody be interested in buying it?

Dobbs West was a western-style sub-brand of Dobbs, introduced by Hat Corporation of America in 1967, if memory serves me. It was continued into the ‘80s by Koracorp in Garland, Texas, after they acquired the HCA brands when HCA closed in 1972. This one looks to be from the late-1970s, possibly early-‘80s. Looks in nice condition and a good size.

 

[moontheloon]

Seems no one is willing to resew a unreeded sweat back into a 1930s hat.
I've spoken to just about everyone I can think of and that all of you recomended.
With good reason I guess as Mike from North West Hats said to me in an email..

"that style of sweatband is extremely difficult to deal with. The only way to repair them is to hand stitch a new thread through the existing holes. Provided the holes still have some structure to them. A lot of times the leather is starting to degrade too and the added stress of restitching will tear them. Also, one of the causes of the stitch failure is that the leather has shrunk slightly and may not be able to be stitched back in at all."

As reluctant as I am to replace the sweat I may do just that ... still thinking about it.

I'll think on it more

who has the best and softest sweatbands ?

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

email..

"that style of sweatband is extremely difficult to deal with. The only way to repair them is to hand stitch a new thread through the existing holes. Provided the holes still have some structure to them. A lot of times the leather is starting to degrade too and the added stress of restitching will tear them. Also, one of the causes of the stitch failure is that the leather has shrunk slightly and may not be able to be stitched back in at all."

That’s interesting to know. I figured hand stitching using the original needle holes would be time consuming but never thought about the risk of the aged structure of the leather & holes. Others have claimed to have done it.

 

[Blare]

That’s interesting to know. I figured hand stitching using the original needle holes would be time consuming but never thought about the risk of the aged structure of the leather & holes. Others have claimed to have done it.

I’ve had this situation where it appears the thread has essentially just worn away but the leather otherwise looks fine thinking just have to meticulously pass the needle through the existing holes only to find out when I went to do so the leather was indeed dry rotted and ends up tearing through as the thread passes along.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Seems no one is willing to resew a unreeded sweat back into a 1930s hat.
I've spoken to just about everyone I can think of and that all of you recomended.
With good reason I guess as Mike from North West Hats said to me in an email..

"that style of sweatband is extremely difficult to deal with. The only way to repair them is to hand stitch a new thread through the existing holes. Provided the holes still have some structure to them. A lot of times the leather is starting to degrade too and the added stress of restitching will tear them. Also, one of the causes of the stitch failure is that the leather has shrunk slightly and may not be able to be stitched back in at all."

As reluctant as I am to replace the sweat I may do just that ... still thinking about it.

I'll think on it more

who has the best and softest sweatbands ?

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

The King's Umbrella. His name is Alan and I don't know where he got his sweatbands but they are soft as a baby's tush.

Not sure he's even operating anymore. I can't find his Etsy page but here is a FB page. I can also get you his email address if you want.

Michael Gannon has a great sweatband, but I like TKU even more.

https://m.facebook.com/61553953106184/

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

That’s interesting to know. I figured hand stitching using the original needle holes would be time consuming but never thought about the risk of the aged structure of the leather & holes. Others have claimed to have done it.

I saw an eBay hat once with the stitching straight through the sweatband into the side of the hat. All the way around like that. The hat was a thin ribbon and obvious work horse, but I thought, that could even work if you remove the ribbon and bow first and then sew them back on after.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

I saw an eBay hat once with the stitching straight through the sweatband into the side of the hat. All the way around like that. The hat was a thin ribbon and obvious work horse, but I thought, that could even work if you remove the ribbon and bow first and then sew them back on after.

I’ve seen that also. Certainly not a way to restore a rare hat of any make or vintage.

 

[moontheloon]

Rodney Allison at North Valley Hat Co. has agreed to give the sweat a go.
Michael Gannon referred to him as "one of the best hat makers in the world" ... so I contacted him.
I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

 

[belfastboy]

Seems no one is willing to resew a unreeded sweat back into a 1930s hat.
I've spoken to just about everyone I can think of and that all of you recomended.
With good reason I guess as Mike from North West Hats said to me in an email..

"that style of sweatband is extremely difficult to deal with. The only way to repair them is to hand stitch a new thread through the existing holes. Provided the holes still have some structure to them. A lot of times the leather is starting to degrade too and the added stress of restitching will tear them. Also, one of the causes of the stitch failure is that the leather has shrunk slightly and may not be able to be stitched back in at all."

As reluctant as I am to replace the sweat I may do just that ... still thinking about it.

I'll think on it more

who has the best and softest sweatbands ?

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

I really like the ones Scott sells at FineVintageFedoras. ..(ETSY) They are pricey but they are the best in my opinion.

Rodney Allison at North Valley Hat Co. has agreed to give the sweat a go.
Michael Gannon referred to him as "one of the best hat makers in the world" ... so I contacted him.
I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

Art Fawcett also speaks highly of Rodney. Art says Rodney is one of the best. The brother has been at for over 35 years.

 

[moontheloon]

I really like the ones Scott sells at FineVintageFedoras. ..(ETSY) They are pricey but they are the best in my opinion.

Art Fawcett also speaks highly of Rodney. Art says Rodney is one of the best. The brother has been at for over 35 years.

Rodney was the only hatter of the 8 I contacted who was willing to give the unreeded a resew.

Michael said he would try as well but was forthcoming saying he had never sewn in a sweat without a reed or tape.

Michael also said that a reeded band might pull on the felt being that it is so soft and thin.

I'm glad to give Rodney a shot... it's only a hat.

 

[belfastboy]

Rodney was the only hatter of the 8 I contacted who was willing to give the unreeded a resew.

Michael said he would try as well but was forthcoming saying he had never sewn in a sweat without a reed or tape.

Michael also said that a reeded band might pull on the felt being that it is so soft and thin.

I'm glad to give Rodney a shot... it's only a hat.

I have only sewn one unreeded sweat but it was a vintage refurb for myself so the pressure was lessened. It worked out well but the leather was still in great shape....no rot whatsoever. I have hand sewn new reed tape into vintage where the entire reed tape was rotted out. That was painstaking work hitting all the existing stitch holes. It took forever and not a recommended way of making money unless happy with $1 an hour.

 

[Rmccamey]

Yes, please keep us informed. I have a couple of hats that need a sweatband refurb/re-sew myself.

Rodney Allison at North Valley Hat Co. has agreed to give the sweat a go.
Michael Gannon referred to him as "one of the best hat makers in the world" ... so I contacted him.
I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

 

[GHT]

Is It possible to dye a felt fedora from black to navy blue? Google gave me this answer:

Yes it's possible, but it requires using a dye bath and may alter the hat's shape, especially it it involves full submersion.
Using an acid dye on a felted wool hat is a viable method, but you'll need a hat block to preserve its shape during the wet process. Alternatively, a spray-on application or a method that avoids full saturation can help maintain the hat's form, though the colour may be less even.

Second question: Is it worth it? Does it cost more than the price of a new hat?

 

[Rmccamey]

Public Service Announcement

Stetson partners with selected universities to provide university branded hats.
https://stories.tamu.edu/news/2025/...lege-branded-western-inspired-hat-collection/

 

[RickP]

Public Service Announcement

Stetson partners with selected universities to provide university branded hats.
https://stories.tamu.edu/news/2025/...lege-branded-western-inspired-hat-collection/

View attachment 728263

Ive been waiting for in focus pictures and more info on the model and quality level . My impression is that its just a 6x western style. Holding out hope its a decent hat at a decent price. Im a serious Texas Aggie, but Im afraid a Maroon ribbon and cheesy script "Aggies" pin would get taken off and replaced with something a bit more refined. For the price of a new Stetson, I can buy a really nice, clean vintage 3x Open Road and put a nice ribbon with an A&M Former Students Association or Aggie Band lapel pin on... (A&M has received a lot of my money over 50 yrs... I should get a discount lol). I will admit if they have an Open Road 6x with a Texas A&M embossed sweatband, Ill probably pick one up... I COULD use an updated Aggie hat!

 

[belfastboy]

Is It possible to dye a felt fedora from black to navy blue? Google gave me this answer:

Yes it's possible, but it requires using a dye bath and may alter the hat's shape, especially it it involves full submersion.
Using an acid dye on a felted wool hat is a viable method, but you'll need a hat block to preserve its shape during the wet process. Alternatively, a spray-on application or a method that avoids full saturation can help maintain the hat's form, though the colour may be less even.

Second question: Is it worth it? Does it cost more than the price of a new hat?

Cannot be done. You would first have to remove the darker black dye from the hat then redye it to navy blue. I have tried various overdye methods on black felts, from purple, to blue to burgundy to give them a slight different hue. It was to no avail as they all came out still just black.