Pincurl Structure?

[Odalisque]

Hopefully, someone can enlighten me or point me to a thread that can help.

I've been having trouble getting a nice wave out of my sets and think it has to do with how I'm making the actual pin curls. I've searched the beauty forum and came across terms like structured pin curls, standing curls, spiral curls ect.

I'm a bit in the dark. I didn't know there were different ways to pin curl.
Can anyone explain how to form these different curls?
Or possibly pictures?

 

[Tatum]

Ack, I was just going to post a link to Nocturne, they had some great info on there, but the site is down!

But I found this, flip to page 172.....

I found an interesting tip on a site, this girl was using a duckbill clip to grab the end of her hair and then wrapped it around the clip! I am so trying that. Here's a link to the site, as I couldn't link the images, they are protected. Make sure to look at the next image, I wouldn't have thought to do this to achieve a rolled look!

Also, I ran across this, which I nabbed from a blog:

Pin curls come in two basic styles, although there are many variations on both. They are the sculpture curl for waves and close-to-the-head effects, and stand-up or barrel curls for soft fluffiness.

Stand-up or sculpture, all pin curls must be round, untwisted, and ribbon-like. They must have the right tension, direction and placement. And they must flow in one smooth motion from the starting point to the pivot point, where each curl is completed. Before you wind, comb each strand straight out in a 90-degree angle from the scalp.

Many women have trouble even when they duplicate their hair stylist's exact pattern because they do not direct pin curls from their very bases. After all, the whole strand is involved in the general motion, not merely the tip. When a curl is properly directed, your setting will have strength no matter how energetically you brush it. Curls must also be secured at the proper point.

As you roll every pin curl , remember:

* Make it nice and round. Always keep curls separated, neat and even, following the lines of the desired style. You can't do a hit-or-miss job and create a smooth-flowing line.

* Always give pin curls a direction, toward or away from your face, or at an angle, depending upon which way you want the brushed-out curl to move.

* The size of the pin curl determines the size of the finished curl. Roll curls dime-size for tight curls. Roll them quarter-size, around two fingers, but still use the same small section of hair, and you will have loose but lasting curls.

* Keep tips inside the circle.

* Avoid untutored ends by not forcing a clip to hold more than it can handle.

* If the over-all effect of the hairdo is to be tight, wind pin curls all the way to the scalp; if not, stop winding before you reach the scalp.

* Use the right pin curl clip, applying it gently so as not to injure hair. Use a small single-prong clip for tiny ear-line and neckline curls. Use a longer one for plump, stand-up curls. Use a double-prong clip for soft sculpture curls and a very long single-prong clip for waves or sectioning.


I always have issues with pin curls, but I am great at research, so I did some looking for you...maybe these will help me too!

 

[Odalisque]

Wow, thank you!
That's fantastic info.

 

[Tatum]

I also just found a really interesting cheat: using a flatiron to set pincurls?? I might have to give that a go!

Don't mind the enthusiasm, I was Director of Research and Development for a web company for a while!

 

[Vix Vixen]

This is from my "Creative Hairshaping & Hairstyling You Can Do" Book

By Ivan of Hollywood c. 1947
Hope this helps

 

[Kitty_Sheridan]

Thanks VV that's really helpful!
K

 

[LelaViavonie]

Thats a great tutorial!
I myself have the hardest time doing them on myself...

 

[Tatum]

I also ran across this, as far as illustrations go...

 

[KittyT]

There is already a HUGE thread here all about pincurls - http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=4254

There are many smaller ones too. I'm pretty sure you'll find the answers you're looking for in one of those threads.
--

Personally, I find it easiest to curl my hair around something that's the size I want. I normally use a Sharpie marker and roll my hair up on it as if I was putting in a roller. Then, just slide the marker (or whatever else you're using) out of your hair and pin.

Also, you may want to find a copy of Milady's cosmetology book or the newer Vintage Hairstyling book (http://www.vintagehairstyling.com/), which has very detailed instructions about pincurl structure, setting angle, pulling them out, brushing them out, etc.

 

[Vix Vixen]

Here's a post from a fellow fedoralounge member in pincurls standing up.

 

[Odalisque]

Thanks you guys!
This was so helpful. I'm going to go and order the Hairstyling book right now!

 

[Odalisque]

So, to update: I tried out a dry set last night using some of the tips you all gave me. And i have to say, you ladies are amazing! I tried some larger standing structure curls and they turned out beautiful. I was so happy when I was doing my hair in the morning... I hated to hide the curls under my snood. But I had to go to work. Anyway, I wanted to thank you all again.

 

[Lorena B]

I also ran across this, as far as illustrations go...

Ah, this is my method, i find it really easy and fast, and it leave you with very cute curls too.