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[jlee562]

Here in Japan the only available Open Roads are th Japan edition in wool felt, or the 160th edition open crown.

It seem the dimensions of the 160th are a bit bigger than the regular one, wider brim, a bit taller.

For those that have them, how does the felt differe, and is it worth the extra cost.

For what it’s worth while I like the Open Roads, I don’t I don’t feel like I want to wear a cattleman crease, so reshaping would be inevitable.

The 160th was made in 6x felt, which I still feel like was an odd choice. The felt is pretty stiff, definitely not like vintage. I kept mine with a simple center dent. I do like the block they used, definitely preferable to the tapered, pre-creased cattleman. It's a nice novelty of modern Stetsons, but TBH it would not be my first choice if I were looking for an open crown hat. I don't regret the purchase (I pretty much knew what I was in for), but it's not like an instant favorite or anything.

 

[Dan718]

Talking of stratoliner, they’ve been on my radar and I’m quite partial to an open crown.
Does anyone own one of these?

https://www.tokiyado.com/c/stetson/se847-camel

 

[Rmccamey]

Talking of stratoliner, they’ve been on my radar and I’m quite partial to an open crown.
Does anyone own one of these?

https://www.tokiyado.com/c/stetson/se847-camel

Most vintage Strats have fairly soft felt, so steaming the crown back to an open crown should not be difficult.

 

[Dan718]

Most vintage Strats have fairly soft felt, so steaming the crown back to an open crown should not be difficult.

Thanks, I was a wee re that streaming was a possibility, although I was really asking about the hat I linked, which although vintage styled isn’t actually vintage.
In any case, vintage hats are few and far between this side of the pacific, so that’s not my first choice.

The other question I have is, is this ‘open crown stratoliner the same as a stratoliner premier?

 

[Rmccamey]

No, a Premier is a specific model name/quality level. An open crown is a configuration. Many/most felt hats are constructed using a rounded top "block" and before they are creased, they are considered Open Crown. In the old days, most hats were sent to the retail stores as open crowns, then creased to customer preferences when they purchased the hat.

Thanks, I was a wee re that streaming was a possibility, although I was really asking about the hat I linked, which although vintage styled isn’t actually vintage.
In any case, vintage hats are few and far between this side of the pacific, so that’s not my first choice.

The other question I have is, is this ‘open crown stratoliner the same as a stratoliner premier?

 

[Dan718]

No, a Premier is a specific model name/quality level. An open crown is a configuration. Many/most felt hats are constructed using a rounded top "block" and before they are creased, they are considered Open Crown. In the old days, most hats were sent to the retail stores as open crowns, then creased to customer preferences when they purchased the hat.

Right, so this is a seperate thing then. It seems to be limited to the Japanese websites as I can’t find that specific signaling anywhere else.

Edit: the Stetson Japan website has more information, this is a Japan made open crown stratoliner. It seems to have a wider brim and a wind chord, so is probably more like a more expensive Campdraft.

I think unless I can track down a premier I may well think about a regular stratoliner later in the year instead. I don’t need quite that much brim.

 

[Frunobulax]

Thanks, I was a wee re that streaming was a possibility, although I was really asking about the hat I linked, which although vintage styled isn’t actually vintage.
In any case, vintage hats are few and far between this side of the pacific, so that’s not my first choice.

The other question I have is, is this ‘open crown stratoliner the same as a stratoliner premier?

No, a Premier is a specific model name/quality level. An open crown is a configuration. Many/most felt hats are constructed using a rounded top "block" and before they are creased, they are considered Open Crown. In the old days, most hats were sent to the retail stores as open crowns, then creased to customer preferences when they purchased the hat.

The modern Stetson Premier Strats are sold open crown. They are of Royal Deluxe quality.

Strat Bs are Royal quality and come pre creased.

If you're buying a new Strat, I'd go with the Premier.

 

[Dan718]

The modern Stetson Premier Strats are sold open crown. They are of Royal Deluxe quality.

Strat Bs are Royal quality and come pre creased.

If you're buying a new Strat, I'd go with the Premier.

That was my thinking, I quite like a slightly taller crown but not a fan of the very wide brim on the Japanese version so the premier is definitely what I’m leaning towards.

It’s relatively easy to get a regular stratoliner but the Premiers seem unavailable from Stetson or any of their distributors here, so I’m going to keep an eye on the classifieds for one in a 58 (7 1/4 in US), or perhaps I can score something on the online auctions for a good price. In any case I bought a couple of new hats, my wife might have something to say if yet another one comes through the post.

 

[Judgmentalist]

What do you guys think of this one?

 

[belfastboy]

What do you guys think of this one?
View attachment 780604

Most importantly...what do you think of it?

 

[Judgmentalist]

Most importantly...what do you think of it?

Still developing my preferences. This is very difficult to do without physical access to the items. This is a problem I’m working on resolving. Im headed to Charleston, SC at some point, which is the closest place to my location where I may be able to play with some cool hats in person without having to buy them first.

These are all my very uneducated opinions, not meant to reflect on anybody else’s preferences.

Initially I was drawn to bowlers almost exclusively. I just think they look cool and look good on my head. This is not an opinion that is shared by members of my immediate family, lol. I still intend to get one at some point, but my wife thinks they look a little costume-y on me, which is fine, but not what I’m going for.

Then I discovered Homburgs. I like these because they are a more traditionally formal hat than a fedora, which lines up with my intended use, (suit and tie, 2-button, 3-button and my favorite peak lapel DB) and I like the structured brim which sort of carries over from the bowler.

My wife thinks I need a middle of the road brim; she thinks too small or too large doesn’t look right on me. We shall see.

Ironically, my wife likes me in just about as classic a fedora as you can imagine, which I initially avoided. My reason for avoiding fedoras was that everybody wears fedoras, and I thought I wanted to be a little bit different. So I’m trying to shoot for a very narrow window between not wearing the most recognizable variation and not wearing something far enough outside the box to register as a costume. I’m coming around on the classic fedora, however.

I default to black or dark or mid grey with matching (not contrasting) ribbon, as this is the most traditional dress application, from what I understand, and in my opinion the easiest point of entry. I also realize this preference will likely expand over time. Dressy, not western, although I do like the cattleman’s crease crown. I’d like to see that on a non-western hat. The structure appeals to me. Assuming it doesn’t look like Frankenstein’s monster lol. I’m just not a cowboy. Yet. When I retire that may change.

Oh, and I definitely do not personally prefer all the intentional distressing, burning, cutting and otherwise over-the-top decorating thing that is going on with a significant subset of the custom western makers. I think they look cool in themselves, but I don’t know how I could wear one. I think this may correspond to what you guys call “bohemian” but I’m not 100% certain.

I like the bound brim, I like the little bit taller looking crown, I like the contrast between the lighter felt and the darker ribbon. I’m not sure how I feel about the flat brim, or if the hat is meant to be worn only with a flat brim, but I think it’s interesting. Probably a little too dramatic for me at this stage of the game, but very pretty.

 

[Judgmentalist]

Still developing my preferences. This is very difficult to do without physical access to the items. This is a problem I’m working on resolving. Im headed to Charleston, SC at some point, which is the closest place to my location where I may be able to play with some cool hats in person without having to buy them first.

These are all my very uneducated opinions, not meant to reflect on anybody else’s preferences.

Initially I was drawn to bowlers almost exclusively. I just think they look cool and look good on my head. This is not an opinion that is shared by members of my immediate family, lol. I still intend to get one at some point, but my wife thinks they look a little costume-y on me, which is fine, but not what I’m going for.

Then I discovered Homburgs. I like these because they are a more traditionally formal hat than a fedora, which lines up with my intended use, (suit and tie, 2-button, 3-button and my favorite peak lapel DB) and I like the structured brim which sort of carries over from the bowler.

My wife thinks I need a middle of the road brim; she thinks too small or too large doesn’t look right on me. We shall see.

Ironically, my wife likes me in just about as classic a fedora as you can imagine, which I initially avoided. My reason for avoiding fedoras was that everybody wears fedoras, and I thought I wanted to be a little bit different. So I’m trying to shoot for a very narrow window between not wearing the most recognizable variation and not wearing something far enough outside the box to register as a costume. I’m coming around on the classic fedora, however.

I default to black or dark or mid grey with matching (not contrasting) ribbon, as this is the most traditional dress application, from what I understand, and in my opinion the easiest point of entry. I also realize this preference will likely expand over time. Dressy, not western, although I do like the cattleman’s crease crown. I’d like to see that on a non-western hat. The structure appeals to me. Assuming it doesn’t look like Frankenstein’s monster lol. I’m just not a cowboy. Yet. When I retire that may change.

Oh, and I definitely do not personally prefer all the intentional distressing, burning, cutting and otherwise over-the-top decorating thing that is going on with a significant subset of the custom western makers. I think they look cool in themselves, but I don’t know how I could wear one. I think this may correspond to what you guys call “bohemian” but I’m not 100% certain.

I like the bound brim, I like the little bit taller looking crown, I like the contrast between the lighter felt and the darker ribbon. I’m not sure how I feel about the flat brim, or if the hat is meant to be worn only with a flat brim, but I think it’s interesting. Probably a little too dramatic for me at this stage of the game, but very pretty.

In a straw hat I like a classic fedora (maybe with a bit of a wider brim, which I think is SOP in straw) natural color, not white, and I like a deep brown ribbon, maybe with a little texture or visual interest if possible.

Though apparently the “natural” color also involves quite a bit of bleaching, and I’m not opposed to a little character in my weave, or darker straw or whatever.

I still have no idea what WPI will make me happy. I assume it will either be what @belfastboy calls a grade 2 or a grade 4.

 

[Judgmentalist]

In a straw hat I like a classic fedora (maybe with a bit of a wider brim, which I think is SOP in straw) natural color, not white, and I like a deep brown ribbon, maybe with a little texture or visual interest if possible.

Though apparently the “natural” color also involves quite a bit of bleaching, and I’m not opposed to a little character in my weave, or darker straw or whatever.

I still have no idea what WPI will make me happy. I assume it will either be what @belfastboy calls a grade 2 or a grade 4.

Oh, and once I integrate hats into my suit wardrobe I intend to expand outward from there. It will be a guerrilla war of attrition lol.

I’m grateful that I have the opportunity to wear suits 3-4 times a week. I include non-suit trousers and blazers in this category, about 30% of the time. I am annoyed that our society is moving away from this.

Probably more information than you wanted lol.

 

[jeffgarf]

My reason for avoiding fedoras was that everybody wears fedoras, and I thought I wanted to be a little bit different.

Enjoy Charleston, my hometown. There is a hat place in the market, Charleston Hat Man, that had, like all hat stores nowadays, some great stuff and some less so. Nevertheless, it's far better than most. There is another store in the market, but it's probably better for mid-level to low cost straws.

Where, near Charleston, do you see everyone wearing fedoras? I'd live to visit next time I'm home. Generally, wearing any hat, not baseball related, is an anomaly.

 

[Judgmentalist]

Enjoy Charleston, my hometown. There is a hat place in the market, Charleston Hat Man, that had, like all hat stores nowadays, some great stuff and some less so. Nevertheless, it's far better than most. There is another store in the market, but it's probably better for mid-level to low cost straws.

Where, near Charleston, do you see everyone wearing fedoras? I'd live to visit next time I'm home. Generally, wearing any hat, not baseball related, is an anomaly.

Fair enough I guess I meant the subset of people that are wearing hats that aren’t baseball caps and aren’t cowboy hats are usually wearing fedoras. I’ve been to that Charleston hat guy’s shop a long time ago - that’s where I fell in love with bowlers. Should’ve bought one on the day. Good to know he’s still around.

I went to a store in Asheville, NC that claimed to be a hat store, but they didn’t have one hat of the quality of anything posted here. It was disappointing.

 

[jeffgarf]

Fair enough I guess I meant the subset of people that are wearing hats that aren’t baseball caps and aren’t cowboy hats are usually wearing fedoras. I’ve been to that Charleston hat guy’s shop a long time ago - that’s where I fell in love with bowlers. Should’ve bought one on the day. Good to know he’s still around.

I went to a store in Asheville, NC that claimed to be a hat store, but they didn’t have one hat of the quality of anything posted here. It was disappointing.

As far as the quality usually posted here, that's no longer sold in stores, unfortunately. Vintage and custom lids need to be sought out or made to order. At least getting a look at something in your size can be done in a hat store. Stetsons and even Borsalinos are not what they once were. Modern, newer mass produced hats from Bollman or Dorfman (the ones usually found on stores)? Forget about it

 

[Frunobulax]

That was my thinking, I quite like a slightly taller crown but not a fan of the very wide brim on the Japanese version so the premier is definitely what I’m leaning towards.

It’s relatively easy to get a regular stratoliner but the Premiers seem unavailable from Stetson or any of their distributors here, so I’m going to keep an eye on the classifieds for one in a 58 (7 1/4 in US), or perhaps I can score something on the online auctions for a good price. In any case I bought a couple of new hats, my wife might have something to say if yet another one comes through the post.

I can't tell from your postings the difference in brim width between the two, if there is one. Generally, a Strat has a 5.5" OC and 2.5" brim. The Strat Bs have a shorter crown than that, however. A 2.5" brim is a modest brim.

I have a modern, Excellent quality Strat that came with the traditional dimensions and I assume the Premiers do, as well.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/stetson-stratoliner-premier-open-crown.93347/

 

[blewnote]

Oh, and once I integrate hats into my suit wardrobe I intend to expand outward from there. It will be a guerrilla war of attrition lol.

I’m grateful that I have the opportunity to wear suits 3-4 times a week. I include non-suit trousers and blazers in this category, about 30% of the time. I am annoyed that our society is moving away from this.

Probably more information than you wanted lol.

As someone who also wears nice clothes to work (as a musician) and pairs them with hats, may I recommend to you the illustrations I turn to again and again for inspiration and what really brought me back to the Fedora Lounge after discovering them.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-mens-fashion-1933-1948-by-flanderian.102763/

You may find them helpful in seeing what various style look like and how they were worn while on your journey to discovering what pleases you. And perhaps, as I do, you'll find inspiration (in terms of what to pair with what) from the clothes as well!

Replying to one of your posts earlier, I'm inclined to agree with your wife that in today's fashion derby/bowler hats seem rather eccentric and perhaps even costume-y. Of course they were standard fare for businessmen through the 1940s and are featured prominently in the illustrations I just shared with you, but they died out even before hats in general did.

Perhaps it is because of my continued interest in those old fashion plates, but I find myself fairly well adhering to the general beliefs about what to wear with what... I don't wear homburgs without a suit, and wouldn't wear a very casual hat like a heathered pork pie with a suit, but find that more casual clothes (both tailored and not) can be worn with a wide variety of fedoras/porkpies/and various straw hats... In short I try to choose a style and shade of hat that compliments what I'm wearing.

 

[Bamaboots]

What do you guys think of this one?

Too much contrast between ribbon and felt.

A Whippet has a 2 1/2” brim compared to the 2 1/4” on this.

The contrast causes the brim to appear even slimmer, especially with the blocking.

The blocking is a positive and I like a SB fedora but I don’t think it works.

You enjoy clothes and wearing suits and sport coats; what would you wear this hat with?

 

[Judgmentalist]

Too much contrast between ribbon and felt.

A Whippet has a 2 1/2” brim compared to the 2 1/4” on this.

The contrast causes the brim to appear even slimmer, especially with the blocking.

The blocking is a positive and I like a SB fedora but I don’t think it works.

You enjoy clothes and wearing suits and sport coats; what would you wear this hat with?

Yeah - I don’t know lol - just figuring things out - I was just like “cool” when I saw it - thanks for the breakdown - that kind of thing is very helpful