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Judgmentalist

A-List Customer
Messages
373
As someone who also wears nice clothes to work (as a musician) and pairs them with hats, may I recommend to you the illustrations I turn to again and again for inspiration and what really brought me back to the Fedora Lounge after discovering them.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-mens-fashion-1933-1948-by-flanderian.102763/

You may find them helpful in seeing what various style look like and how they were worn while on your journey to discovering what pleases you. And perhaps, as I do, you'll find inspiration (in terms of what to pair with what) from the clothes as well!

Replying to one of your posts earlier, I'm inclined to agree with your wife that in today's fashion derby/bowler hats seem rather eccentric and perhaps even costume-y. Of course they were standard fare for businessmen through the 1940s and are featured prominently in the illustrations I just shared with you, but they died out even before hats in general did.

Perhaps it is because of my continued interest in those old fashion plates, but I find myself fairly well adhering to the general beliefs about what to wear with what... I don't wear homburgs without a suit, and wouldn't wear a very casual hat like a heathered pork pie with a suit, but find that more casual clothes (both tailored and not) can be worn with a wide variety of fedoras/porkpies/and various straw hats... In short I try to choose a style and shade of hat that compliments what I'm wearing.
Thanks for that link - I bookmarked it - I have to be careful with my suits - at 5’8” if I go too old school the proportions shorten me even further - what I like and what looks good on me often don’t get along :)
 
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jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,231
Location
San Francisco, CA
What do you guys think of this one?
View attachment 780604

This is not a design I would choose for myself. I think the proportions are off. The crown is too high for that brim, or that brim is too short for the crown. The wide binding isn't helping either. I like a flat brim hat, the hats I make for myself are flat brims, but I don't know why this hat is a flat brim hat. It is not a Whippet. It might have been vaguely Whippet inspired in the head of the person who ordered it, but the end result is something that does not resemble any vintage hat in particular (that I can think of anyway).
 
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Judgmentalist

A-List Customer
Messages
373
This is not a design I would choose for myself. I think the proportions are off. The crown is too high for that brim, or that brim is too short for the crown. The wide binding isn't helping either. I like a flat brim hat, the hats I make for myself are flat brims, but I don't know why this hat is a flat brim hat. It is not a Whippet. It might have been vaguely Whippet inspired in the head of the person who ordered it, but the end result is something that does not resemble any vintage hat in particular (that I can think of anyway).
I wonder if the the size of the brim was limited by the felt. 7 1/2 with a tallish crown- maybe they ran out of material - maybe that’s why he wants to sell this one.

I don’t have an eye for proportions in hats yet. I just know 1.) my wife doesn’t like wide brims on me and 2.) whether or not I think something is interesting.
 

Judgmentalist

A-List Customer
Messages
373
What the heck is this? Why does it exist?
IMG_0347.png
IMG_0345.png
 

blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Thanks for that link - I bookmarked it - I have to be careful with my suits - at 5’8” if I go too old school the proportions shorten me even further - what I like and what looks good on me often don’t get along :)

I don't know, I think the 1930s are the epitome of style for me... A nice balance between the cut (drapey, easy to move in yet helping to emphasize idealized male figure) and lovely patterns and colors. The 40s ironically was the inspiration for 90s tailoring (everything comes around) and still looked pretty great in my opinion. But I really love the 30s vibe.

I've never seen a picture of Gene Kelly (5' 7"), Bing Crosby (5' 7"), or Frank Sinatra (5' 8") where I thought their clothing made them look short and they were dressing old school for sure!
 

blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
What the heck is this? Why does it exist? View attachment 780668 View attachment 780670

I don't know that I've seen one in linen before, but that style (usually in tweed or rough felt) was intended for country wear. Peruse that link I posted and you'll see some examples (even some alpine or tyrolean style hats, which don't really do it for me but were definitely worn). Not my vibe either.
 

Judgmentalist

A-List Customer
Messages
373
I don't know, I think the 1930s are the epitome of style for me... A nice balance between the cut (drapey, easy to move in yet helping to emphasize idealized male figure) and lovely patterns and colors. The 40s ironically was the inspiration for 90s tailoring (everything comes around) and still looked pretty great in my opinion. But I really love the 30s vibe.

I've never seen a picture of Gene Kelly (5' 7"), Bing Crosby (5' 7"), or Frank Sinatra (5' 8") where I thought their clothing made them look short and they were dressing old school for sure!
I love the fuller drape, higher rise pants and shorter waistcoat. I’m so glad we are done with those silly skinny suits. The vintage jackets want to be a little longer, 31-32ish, and I need like a 29.5-30 or I start looking like a member of the lollipop guild lol. I love my vintage DBs, but my wife gives me a hard time about them.
 
Messages
12,482
Location
Orange County, California
What the heck is this? Why does it exist? View attachment 780668 View attachment 780670

Well, it's commonly known as a "hat", and most people wear them on their heads. Kidding aside, this particular hat would likely be known as a "Trilby" or a "stingy brim", and they've become quite popular among younger men as "beginner" hats. I rather like them, though I wouldn't wear one that had stripes like this hat--I prefer solid colors usually. Besides, I'm 64 years old, so nobody really cares what I wear as long as it isn't indecent. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Messages
11,250
Location
vancouver, canada
As someone who also wears nice clothes to work (as a musician) and pairs them with hats, may I recommend to you the illustrations I turn to again and again for inspiration and what really brought me back to the Fedora Lounge after discovering them.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-mens-fashion-1933-1948-by-flanderian.102763/

You may find them helpful in seeing what various style look like and how they were worn while on your journey to discovering what pleases you. And perhaps, as I do, you'll find inspiration (in terms of what to pair with what) from the clothes as well!

Replying to one of your posts earlier, I'm inclined to agree with your wife that in today's fashion derby/bowler hats seem rather eccentric and perhaps even costume-y. Of course they were standard fare for businessmen through the 1940s and are featured prominently in the illustrations I just shared with you, but they died out even before hats in general did.

Perhaps it is because of my continued interest in those old fashion plates, but I find myself fairly well adhering to the general beliefs about what to wear with what... I don't wear homburgs without a suit, and wouldn't wear a very casual hat like a heathered pork pie with a suit, but find that more casual clothes (both tailored and not) can be worn with a wide variety of fedoras/porkpies/and various straw hats... In short I try to choose a style and shade of hat that compliments what I'm wearing.
I have about a dozen homburgs...I like wearing them with a hoodie...Jean jacket....leather jacket or tweed blazer.....in other words I see them going with anything.
 
Messages
11,250
Location
vancouver, canada
Still developing my preferences. This is very difficult to do without physical access to the items. This is a problem I’m working on resolving. Im headed to Charleston, SC at some point, which is the closest place to my location where I may be able to play with some cool hats in person without having to buy them first.

These are all my very uneducated opinions, not meant to reflect on anybody else’s preferences. :)

Initially I was drawn to bowlers almost exclusively. I just think they look cool and look good on my head. This is not an opinion that is shared by members of my immediate family, lol. I still intend to get one at some point, but my wife thinks they look a little costume-y on me, which is fine, but not what I’m going for.

Then I discovered Homburgs. I like these because they are a more traditionally formal hat than a fedora, which lines up with my intended use, (suit and tie, 2-button, 3-button and my favorite peak lapel DB) and I like the structured brim which sort of carries over from the bowler.

My wife thinks I need a middle of the road brim; she thinks too small or too large doesn’t look right on me. We shall see.

Ironically, my wife likes me in just about as classic a fedora as you can imagine, which I initially avoided. My reason for avoiding fedoras was that everybody wears fedoras, and I thought I wanted to be a little bit different. So I’m trying to shoot for a very narrow window between not wearing the most recognizable variation and not wearing something far enough outside the box to register as a costume. I’m coming around on the classic fedora, however.

I default to black or dark or mid grey with matching (not contrasting) ribbon, as this is the most traditional dress application, from what I understand, and in my opinion the easiest point of entry. I also realize this preference will likely expand over time. Dressy, not western, although I do like the cattleman’s crease crown. I’d like to see that on a non-western hat. The structure appeals to me. Assuming it doesn’t look like Frankenstein’s monster lol. I’m just not a cowboy. Yet. When I retire that may change. :)

Oh, and I definitely do not personally prefer all the intentional distressing, burning, cutting and otherwise over-the-top decorating thing that is going on with a significant subset of the custom western makers. I think they look cool in themselves, but I don’t know how I could wear one. I think this may correspond to what you guys call “bohemian” but I’m not 100% certain.

I like the bound brim, I like the little bit taller looking crown, I like the contrast between the lighter felt and the darker ribbon. I’m not sure how I feel about the flat brim, or if the hat is meant to be worn only with a flat brim, but I think it’s interesting. Probably a little too dramatic for me at this stage of the game, but very pretty.
I was in Charleston last year. There is a hat shop right downtown...next to our hotel... Francis marrion. Can't recall the name....lots of straw hats
 
Messages
11,250
Location
vancouver, canada
I don't know that I've seen one in linen before, but that style (usually in tweed or rough felt) was intended for country wear. Peruse that link I posted and you'll see some examples (even some alpine or tyrolean style hats, which don't really do it for me but were definitely worn). Not my vibe either.
I don't mind the hats so much but I look funny in the compulsory lederhosen that goes with them
 

Judgmentalist

A-List Customer
Messages
373
Well, it's commonly known as a "hat", and most people wear them on their heads. Kidding aside, this particular hat would likely be known as a "Trilby" or a "stingy brim", and they've become quite popular among younger men as "beginner" hats. I rather like them, though I wouldn't wear one that had stripes like this hat--I prefer solid colors usually. Besides, I'm 64 years old, so nobody really cares what I wear as long as it isn't indecent. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Specifically I was referring to the part where this hat is made by Optimo, out of Chicago, and doesn’t look at all like what I associate with them. At first I thought it was some other Optimo, but it’s not. I was just curious why they would outsource hats to somewhere in France, etc.
 
Messages
12,482
Location
Orange County, California
Specifically I was referring to the part where this hat is made by Optimo, out of Chicago, and doesn’t look at all like what I associate with them. At first I thought it was some other Optimo, but it’s not. I was just curious why they would outsource hats to somewhere in France, etc.

I'd guess Optimo is just like every other business in operation these days--if they feel they're missing out on a segment of the population that isn't buying their goods, they'll start making and marketing those goods in order to increase their profit margin. Assuming that's in-line with their business model, of course; I wouldn't expect them to suddenly start selling automobile paint or dog shampoo.
 

Judgmentalist

A-List Customer
Messages
373
Alright I found a vintage Cavanaugh Homburg that might actually fit around my giant noggin. What do you guys think? I’m thinking of sending to @belfastboy to freshen it up if he thinks it would be worth doing.
 

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Messages
11,250
Location
vancouver, canada
Alright I found a vintage Cavanaugh Homburg that might actually fit around my giant noggin. What do you guys think? I’m thinking of sending to @belfastboy to freshen it up if he thinks it would be worth doing.
Alright I found a vintage Cavanaugh Homburg that might actually fit around my giant noggin. What do you guys think? I’m thinking of sending to @belfastboy to freshen it up if he thinks it would be worth doing.
The hat looks to be is good shape. I learnt to always ask: are there any stains...moth nibbles...flaws...or odors in the hat. Ask...then if you receive a hat not as described ...you have grounds to return. Protect yourself against ignorant sellers....not ****med...they just f
don't know hats. I suggest when you buy it let me know the condition and I can walk you through refreshing g it yourself. If you go the used hat route it will be a skill you need. By the time you pay for shipping back and forth plus my fee then that $180 hat becomes a $300 hat and maybe no longer such a deal.
 

Judgmentalist

A-List Customer
Messages
373
The hat looks to be is good shape. I learnt to always ask: are there any stains...moth nibbles...flaws...or odors in the hat. Ask...then if you receive a hat not as described ...you have grounds to return. Protect yourself against ignorant sellers....not ****med...they just f
don't know hats. I suggest when you buy it let me know the condition and I can walk you through refreshing g it yourself. If you go the used hat route it will be a skill you need. By the time you pay for shipping back and forth plus my fee then that $180 hat becomes a $300 hat and maybe no longer such a deal.
I think you may be underestimating how much I value knowing something was done right lol. Also I’m not sure how much of this vintage stuff I’m going to be doing. I’m much more likely to have the right hat made exactly the way I want it - once I have that dialed in :)
 
Messages
11,250
Location
vancouver, canada
The hat looks to be is good shape. I learnt to always ask: are there any stains...moth nibbles...flaws...or odors in the hat. Ask...then if you receive a hat not as described ...you have grounds to return. Protect yourself against ignorant sellers....not ****med...they just f
don't know hats. I suggest when you buy it let me know the condition and I can walk you through refreshing g it yourself. If you go the used hat route it will be a skill you need. By the time you pay for shipping back and forth plus my fee then that $180 hat becomes a $300 hat and maybe no longer such a deal.
My experience in buying used hats off Ebay is one of having to kiss a lot of frogs. Be prepared for disappointment if you are not buying from an established reseller you trust.
 

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