okay, now when I try to add more pictures to this thread it says they are too big, so I created an album if you can look at it. It's labeled Pepaws Old Hats. I put 2 others on there, 1 is a straw (?) stetson panama, the other has a feather and appears to be new possibly, the tag is still attached there as well.
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- Thread starter Lefty
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- advice akubra akubra hat band replacement bashing beaver xxx beret bespoke bolero borsalino brim width bushman cheap hat cowboy hat cycber monday deal discount code double brim eastman eastman hat eastman leathers ebay elc era europe fawn fedora felt fifth avenue good deal hat hat block hat bodies hat care help homburg identify johnny depp krushable lawson light fur felt mallory fifteen online shopping open road panama hat party pliafelt private label vintage question on year resistol resistol kitten finish robert de niro scam self conforming shudde bros single brim size stetson stiffness stratoliner stratton straw straw hat suits tan the godfather the union men's shops tricorn trilby vintage vito corleone hat w alboum waterproofing western western hats which era
moontheloon
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Both are definitely of more recent vintage than the Royal.
The Panama I may guess 60s or 70s without seeing additional tags or holding it in my hands.
The Dynafelt I'm not too familiar with but judging by the style, price tag, and sweat I would guess 70s ... Possibly newer
I would also guess that the Royal appears unworn because it was not his size ... but even at that small size it is the most valuable of the lot
Okay, thank you, I really appreciate you taking the time to look at them, I really like the first I showed you, I did look to see if there were any tags under the inside leather, and the only thing I saw was there seemed to be something similar to a serial number written in pencil. The dynafelt was too stiff, I was afraid to look....Is there really that big of a difference in size between someone who wears a 7 and someone who wears a 71/4 or 7 3/8?
moontheloon
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Someone who wears a 7 1/4 like myself or a 7 3/8 would not get into a size 7 hat
and the stickers wil not be on the leather... They will be on the felt of the hat under the sweat and often under the liner.
You may have to turn down the sweat and lift the liner a bit... But if the sweat stitching feels at all weak or brittle do not bother
and it is my pleasure to give any info at all
Just a quick one, hope someone can help.
I have been looking for one of those straw fedora style hats with a clear green plastic front to the brim. Anyone know what I'm talking about? I can't even find a picture of one but I know they exist. Is there a name for this style of hat so I can narrow my search? Thanks in advance!
I have been looking for one of those straw fedora style hats with a clear green plastic front to the brim. Anyone know what I'm talking about? I can't even find a picture of one but I know they exist. Is there a name for this style of hat so I can narrow my search? Thanks in advance!
moontheloon
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I purchased a few last summer from a Tractor Supply store, they are great to use while out around the yard during the summer weather. As to name? Geez, maybe sun visor straw hat?????
You will find one...given the leads you have now. We love the ones we have, great for outside work, using the grill, lawn darts and hide and seek, too! haha!
Short Balding Guy
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What makes a brim snap?
I googled older Fedora Lounge threads with only marginal benefit. I now understand that brims require stiffener to hold their snap characteristics, lots of minutia to the definition of a "snap" brim fedora, and that flanges are critical. Not a one explained what the snap is from and how to potentially change it in a given hat.
Which brim flange? I have been checking out buying some brim flanges and how the flange relates to "snap" in a fedora. I do understand that the result of a "snap brim" is to have the brim turn down. I see unbound edged and bound edged hats "snap." I see larger brim edges and "stingy" brims snap. I have very thin felt and thick felt that snap. Lots of different characteristics "snap."
What makes a brim snap? How can I choose a flange to get "snap?" Do I have a choice of how much "snap?"
Trying to understand "snap." Best, Eric -
I googled older Fedora Lounge threads with only marginal benefit. I now understand that brims require stiffener to hold their snap characteristics, lots of minutia to the definition of a "snap" brim fedora, and that flanges are critical. Not a one explained what the snap is from and how to potentially change it in a given hat.
Which brim flange? I have been checking out buying some brim flanges and how the flange relates to "snap" in a fedora. I do understand that the result of a "snap brim" is to have the brim turn down. I see unbound edged and bound edged hats "snap." I see larger brim edges and "stingy" brims snap. I have very thin felt and thick felt that snap. Lots of different characteristics "snap."
What makes a brim snap? How can I choose a flange to get "snap?" Do I have a choice of how much "snap?"
Trying to understand "snap." Best, Eric -
Last edited:
Michael R.
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Eric ,
Here's a vid by Kevin at Pork Pie Hatters on putting snap in a brim , floppy or none to start with ...
I hope that helps .
TheDane
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Over the years many different brim styles have been in fashion. Two of the flange types used looked a lot alike, but gave very different results: The "snap brim" and the "off the face brim". The latter turned up all around.
You can snap down the front of an "off the face", but it will be "crooked" into what I call a "hawk's beak". The snapped down part will be too arched to give a nice impression. It was just not made for snapping.
If you see a true snap-brim flange from the side, you'll see a slight difference in curvature between front and back. The front is slightly less curved than the back - to accommodate a nicer/straighter snap-part. It shouldn't be flat ... just a little less curved.
When the hat is on the flange, secured with a stretcher or brass band-block in the opening, you cover the whole thing with a very heavy piece of flannel and tie it around the flange (along the groove in the flange). You then dampen the cloth and iron the brim thoroughly. Ideally you end the job by lowering a large, heated sandbag on top - and let it rest for 10-20 minutes. The sandbagger can be a vicious tool, though! If you buy or make one, you should use a good temperature controller and a temperature safety switch. More than one hatter's shop went up in flames due to a heated sandbagger
A flat-ironed brim can be hard to tie down on the flange. A hatter will sometimes run lightly over the brim edge with a curling shackle to ease the job. You can also just steam the edge a bit and use the fingers to give the brim a little initial curl.
After ironing (and maybe sandbagging) you can gently remove the cloth after a few minutes and let the brim cool completely down on the flange. After 10-15 minutes you have a nice snap brim.
It can be quite hard to find the right flange(s) on the Bay. You usually need a good side-pic to tell if it's actually a snap-brim flange. If you can find an old catalog from a supply house, you can read the description and use the style-number of the flange as a reference in your search. Unfortunately I can't help you there at the moment. I'm still refurbing my apartment, and most of my hat stuff is stored somewhere in what my daughter refers to as my "Tetris room" ... a room with only few cubic inches of free air between stored stuff!
Short Balding Guy
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Michael; Thanks. Most of what he said I have heard and tried in my home-ameteur way. I have not had results that I like. I have not used hair spray. In my neck of the world, rain,snow or weather make that treatment very temporary and I have had it make a mess on the brim after a rain shower. I have had a couple hats blow off my head into the lake and while I can get them to look as they did before, they have lost some snap. The couple that hit the water and became totally soaked are now different. Subtly, but different.
The benefit of the vid is showcasing how easy small adjustments can be with steam and pressure. I hope others see this vid. Thanks again.
Over the years many different brim styles have been in fashion. Two of the flange types used looked a lot alike, but gave very different results: The "snap brim" and the "off the face brim". The latter turned up all around.
You can snap down the front of an "off the face", but it will be "crooked" into what I call a "hawk's beak". The snapped down part will be too arched to give a nice impression. It was just not made for snapping.
If you see a true snap-brim flange from the side, you'll see a slight difference in curvature between front and back. The front is slightly less curved than the back - to accommodate a nicer/straighter snap-part. It shouldn't be flat ... just a little less curved.
When the hat is on the flange, secured with a stretcher or brass band-block in the opening, you cover the whole thing with a very heavy piece of flannel and tie it around the flange (along the groove in the flange). You then dampen the cloth and iron the brim thoroughly. Ideally you end the job by lowering a large, heated sandbag on top - and let it rest for 10-20 minutes. The sandbagger can be a vicious tool, though! If you buy or make one, you should use a good temperature controller and a temperature safety switch. More than one hatter's shop went up in flames due to a heated sandbagger
A flat-ironed brim can be hard to tie down on the flange. A hatter will sometimes run lightly over the brim edge with a curling shackle to ease the job. You can also just steam the edge a bit and use the fingers to give the brim a little initial curl.
After ironing (and maybe sandbagging) you can gently remove the cloth after a few minutes and let the brim cool completely down on the flange. After 10-15 minutes you have a nice snap brim.
It can be quite hard to find the right flange(s) on the Bay. You usually need a good side-pic to tell if it's actually a snap-brim flange. If you can find an old catalog from a supply house, you can read the description and use the style-number of the flange as a reference in your search. Unfortunately I can't help you there at the moment. I'm still refurbing my apartment, and most of my hat stuff is stored somewhere in what my daughter refers to as my "Tetris room" ... a room with only few cubic inches of free air between stored stuff!
Ole; Excellent. I have been peering at brims this morning. The curvature (front to back) are different on some of my favorite hats.
Hawk and snap - terms I will start using. I have a hat that I tried to get more snap and it is now a hawk. Like you, I do not like the look of the "hawk." To each there own style. A ever increasing slope, gentle curve on a front brim is what I desire. Curvaceous hat brims!
Forum folks have converted western into fedoras and they have shown in pics snap brims. I wonder if the pics trick my eye into believing they snap down into the curve or it they are stiff. Molded is the word that comes to mind.
Flanges - you are right I need a flange. I will continue to listen and ask about snap as I am sure I can pick up a flange with persistence. My hat brims will appreciate the effort. As to using sand bags with caution, I have heard this a couple of times before. I am not anxious to burn the "bunk house" down. I doubt I will use that tool at home.
Listening and planning, Eric -
FilthyHillbilly
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I'm looking to buy an Akubra Cattleman and am a size 61 in Tilley Hats. Are the Akubras true to size or should I go up to a 62?
Cane Rod Maker
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I was just searching for this information.
Great post Richard.
Cane Rod Maker
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I had a 61 and was tight.
ChicagoWayVito
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Nice link, I noticed that it was information sheet #8 so I went looking for others. Here they are:
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet1
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet2
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet3
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet4
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet5
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet6
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet7
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet8
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet9
http://www.stockport.gov.uk/2013/3000/558305/524334/hatworksinformationsheet10
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In my experience I'd say Akubras run true to size for the most part. I have three Fed IVs and three Campdrafts. After the usual "shrink to fit" period common to Akubra hats, all of the Fed IVs fit the same, and all of the Campdrafts fit the same, but the Campdrafts all needed a little time on the hat jack to stretch them out slightly because they were a bit too snug. That being said, my head measures so close to 60 centimeters that the difference isn't worth mentioning, so I've always ordered size 60. If you're actually between sizes, going up a size might be advisable.
When in doubt, get an accurate current head measurement, then contact whichever vendor you're planning to purchase your Cattleman from and ask for their recommendation.
I agree.