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Randall Renshaw

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,774
Location
Nahunta, Ga.
Never tried.
I have. I’ve tried many things with many different hats, but most times they were undesirables that I didn’t mind experimenting on. That’s probably too long of a stretch and the sewn seam will bust apart. Plus, even if The stretch is a success, that much change will cause too much taper in most fedoras...if that’s an issue for you. It is with me. But hey, some hats can take a long stretch and some can’t take much at all...Even in the taper, if the hat has a very square or reverse taper built into it. It’s a crap shoot unless you hold the hat in hand for a study. Hope this helps you, Mr. Two Hats.
 
Not sure where to post this, but if you have questions about your hat sold through Sears, you now have temporary free access to the catalog scans hosted on Ancestry.com. I think you have to have an account (and sign in), but it does not have to be active. Works for me anyway and I've not had paid access to Ancestry records for a few years.

https://www.ancestry.com/search/collections/1670/

upload_2019-11-20_11-49-23.png
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,651
Location
Central Texas
As others have said, it really is a crap shoot and depends a lot on the hat. Based on how much I want a particular model and it's condition, I have the same debate myself. I'm a perfect 7 1/8 and, as Bill and others have said, I can sometimes buy up (1/4) or down (7) and get a good fit with felt strips inside the sweat or a bit of stretching but, again, that all depends on the hat. Some 7's I've bought had a very stiff sweat that would not stretch (beyond my comfort zone, that is, of not wanting to damage the hat) and some 1/4's were so large (relatively speaking) that even felt behind the sweat would not make it smaller without wrinkling the sweat making it uncomfortable to wear. But, again as Bill said, some that don't fit work well to sell later or trade for something that does fit. Just my $0.02 worth.


I think it's a size 7 based on the measurements and the (L + W)/2 calculation. Have you stretched a hat from 7 to 71/8- 7 1/4 before with any luck?
 
Messages
11,151
Location
Alabama
Anyone know the typical width of a western 6-ply ribbon?

Bob, I have two. One is the Stetson Arminto or whatever with the underbrim binding and it's 3/4" though it is actually two 3 plys stacked. The other is my Portis western that is one piece and is 5/8". I have another out for delivery today and I'll check it when it arrives.
 
Try dropping a note to Tim at Alley Kat, he posted on Instagram this AM that he just picked up a haul of vintage ribbon including some black 6ply.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5HfQEVBDZU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

That was what triggered my question -- there was some grey-blue in there as well. This would be for a hat that Art at VS will be making, so wasn't sure if I should get Tim involved or if ribbon is "shared" among hatters. Maybe if I promise to get my next new hat from Tim. :)

Bob, I have two. One is the Stetson Arminto or whatever with the underbrim binding and it's 3/4" though it is actually two 3 plys stacked. The other is my Portis western that is one piece and is 5/8". I have another out for delivery today and I'll check it when it arrives.

Thanks Greg -- appreciate it. An Arminto style hat is what I'm leaning towards.

African or European?

Oh, sorry, that's for an unladen swallow. Carry on.

upload_2019-11-21_10-54-6.png
 

Cotton1of2

New in Town
Messages
2
Hi everyone,

This will serve as my intro and a question or two.

After stumbling across this excellent forum I decided to try to make a hat for my blackpowder hobby. Just for practice and curiosity, I ordered a long hair fur felt hat body from Fepsa and now I’m left with questions( I know I jumped into the deep end). I can’t seem to find any info on hat making with long hair bodies.

I’ve seen videos and read some great articles on hat making with smooth felt, so can someone tell me the differences I should consider with long hair? Do I treat the process of blocking and ironing the same? Is there a special treatment to lay the hair down and give it a sheen or does ironing do that? Can the brim be cut and brushed back to a natural looking edge or must it be edged with ribbon?

Also, I don’t know the fur content of this hat but it’s advertised as 100% fur. It’s pretty flimsy as of now. Will blocking and ironing stiffen the hat or should I consider some “stiffener” product?

Below is a pic of my hat body, a top hat with the finish I’m after and Manuel Lisa’s hat which I like the shape of.

Thank you all for your feedback!


View media item 2594View media item 2595View media item 2596
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,049
Location
San Francisco, CA
Hi everyone,

This will serve as my intro and a question or two.

After stumbling across this excellent forum I decided to try to make a hat for my blackpowder hobby. Just for practice and curiosity, I ordered a long hair fur felt hat body from Fepsa and now I’m left with questions( I know I jumped into the deep end). I can’t seem to find any info on hat making with long hair bodies.

I’ve seen videos and read some great articles on hat making with smooth felt, so can someone tell me the differences I should consider with long hair? Do I treat the process of blocking and ironing the same? Is there a special treatment to lay the hair down and give it a sheen or does ironing do that? Can the brim be cut and brushed back to a natural looking edge or must it be edged with ribbon?

Also, I don’t know the fur content of this hat but it’s advertised as 100% fur. It’s pretty flimsy as of now. Will blocking and ironing stiffen the hat or should I consider some “stiffener” product?

Below is a pic of my hat body, a top hat with the finish I’m after and Manuel Lisa’s hat which I like the shape of.

Thank you all for your feedback!


View media item 2594View media item 2595View media item 2596

Well, the generic answer from this non-hatmaker: appears to be yes. Scientific Hat Finishing describes some variation on techniques for 'napped' felts and velours.

https://archive.org/details/scientifichatfin00erma/page/74
 

M Brown

A-List Customer
Messages
335
Location
N Tx
question:

how is it possible that a western themed major motion picture or network television program can get to the final stage for viewing with one of the actors wearing his hat backwards in at least one scene. Are actors that dumb? thank you over and out
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,049
Location
San Francisco, CA
question:

how is it possible that a western themed major motion picture or network television program can get to the final stage for viewing with one of the actors wearing his hat backwards in at least one scene. Are actors that dumb? thank you over and out

The crease was backwards or the ribbon was on the 'wrong' side?

If the former, I've got nothing. But the latter commonly occurs in editing when the film (or video as it were) is flipped to change directions.
 
Messages
18,929
Location
Central California
Wondering if anyone has come across information on ‘The Helbing Hat Co’ from San Francisco. Most of the information I found led to the owner, but it seemed it was more of a dry goods store than a hat maker. Trying to decide if I should acquire this seemingly early 1900’s western.

View attachment 197388 View attachment 197389




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know a thing about the brand, but that’s a very cool hat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Wondering if anyone has come across information on ‘The Helbing Hat Co’ from San Francisco.

I would love to have a hat like that!

This is a start. I see stuff back to 1901 so far.

1903:
upload_2019-11-24_17-15-43.png


1904:
upload_2019-11-24_17-29-14.png


1905: 3 Battery St.
upload_2019-11-24_17-26-5.png


1907:
upload_2019-11-24_18-55-46.png


1908:
upload_2019-11-24_17-13-44.png


1914:
upload_2019-11-24_17-37-0.png

upload_2019-11-24_17-37-33.png


1916:
upload_2019-11-24_18-35-20.png


1922:
upload_2019-11-24_19-4-12.png


Battery & Pine: Across from the old Levi Strauss headquarters.
upload_2019-11-24_19-26-30.png
 
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